Soft Annealer Floor?

[Dan Ellis]

Any suggestions on what I can put on the floor of the annealer that'll give me a soft cushion to set heavy solid pieces on?

Thanks

Dan

[Steve Stadelman]

A layer of frax covered with some refrasil cloth. Call tha Portalnd E.J. Bartells. They sell it by the yard. Tell them the temp range you need.

[Richard Huntrods]

Depends what you want for "soft".

I've got a sheet of the graphite material (like a very thick paper made of graphite) that Allan Gott sells on the floor of my annealer.

Absolutely awesome stuff! At annealer temps, the stuff lasts nearly forever, and keeps the glass from picking up and crud. Also allows you to shift work in the annealer if you must without problems. It's also just thick enough to act as a nice cushion for the work.

Contact Allan - he sells the stuff in large sheets specifically for annealer floors.

Cheers,

-Richard

[Rob White]

Or there is the old method of using trays of mineral talc. Not the drugstore talc, since it is really corn starch and will burn.

There can be a dust issue, but it is what the Italian have been using for many years.

We have used vermiculite for years. Pieces nest nicely into it, don't roll around at all. Inexpensive and adds insulation to the floor.

[Dan Ellis]

I want to make some spherical pieces with no flat punty spot or at least as little of one as possable. I have some graphite sheets from Allan and there fine but not to keep stuff from rolling around.

I don't know what Refrasil cloth is, I'll have to google that one. I thought about just tossing a piece of frax in there but was concerned about the dust.

Vermiculite sounds like it might work, isn't there a dust issue with it too? do I just put an inch or two of it in a metal tray and set that in the annealer?

[Dave Hilty]

http://www.hitco.com/refrasil/silica/index.html

I've heard it called welders blanket.

Great stuff. Cynthia talked about it in an old thread discussing how to eliminate dust bombs from frax used on a knock-off box/table. I bought a larger piece and cut to fit my knock-off box covering the frax below. Its showing only slight darkening after 2 years of use.

[Rosanna Gusler]

there can be asbestos issues with vermiculite. rosanna

[Chris Juedemann]

Popcorn salt is supposed to work.

Chris

[Drew Fritts]

I've been using white popcorn salt for 5 or 6 years and it works great as long as you don't get it too hot. It melts at 1474 ºF. I have trays in my annealers that I put a 1/4" layer in and sphears won't roll in it. It's cheap and non-hazardous to your health if you breath it in. If you try to pick something back up out of the annealer, brush it off with a whisk broom before reheating it.

Drew <+><

[Bob Fraser]

rosanna,

it is a common misconception,
that we should stop spreading

http://www.vermiculite.net/

bob

[Douglas Terry]

Not after 1984 I'm told. Doug Terry

Originally posted by Rosanna Gusler
there can be asbestos issues with vermiculite. rosanna

[Rosanna Gusler]

[ depends. my brother has lung damage from vermiculite he used in the 70's and 80's. i said there can be issues and there can depending when and where the stuff was mined. it does not go bad after all. rosanna ps http://www.frankpasternak.com/w_r__grace_zonolite_asbestos.htm

We use larger particle vermiculite, on the order of 1/4". It does break down some over time and we vacuum it out and replace it. We just layer the entire floor with it a few inches thick. Vermiculite is expanded mica, which is itself a crystaline mineral. All crystaline materials can cause lung problems in sufficient quantity. Ventilation has been mentioned on this board at least a few times.

[Holly Wallace]

What about using grog?? It's dusty but it is only clay dust. I haven't tried it but it sure works well on the floor of the glory.

Grog works great in the floor of glory holes as chip and drip catching material. It seems a bit scratchy to put newly finished work down onto.

[Nick Jones]

I tenderly lower my work onto red satin sheets.
<3

[Roger Gandelman]

I make stands out of high temp soft brick. I saw them with a hand saw to the size I need, then grind an angled cavity (like the base) using a screw driver(turning it round and round) and then make a hole in the bottom for any punty left over....it takes about 3 minutes to make one.
I have a bunch in the annealer...when I go to put a piece away, I try a couple until the piece sits well in one.
My work is all tall and tapers to a small base...I could never stand it up without a stand.

I hate ruining work in the annealer...with the stands, it dosen't happen often.

[Ted Trower]

Originally posted by Roger Gandelman
I make stands out of high temp soft brick. I saw them with a hand saw to the size I need, then grind an angled cavity (like the base) using a screw driver(turning it round and round) and then make a hole in the bottom for any punty left over.

I have to believe that a base like that leaves some marks on the base of the piece. Do you then cut / grind these off?

[David Patchen]

I lay all my pieces on their side in cookie trays of talc. Works great. This is what the Italians do and they've been at this for a while...

[Roger Gandelman]

The stand never leaves a mark if you you let it cool to the right temp....I have been doing this way for decades....alot of my work has a luster and it doesn't even disturb that (no scratches).

[Wes Hunting]

I also use ho- made soft brick stands, like Rodger, for my larger work with small bases. If I put them away cool enough, zero marks.

[Jeremy Scidmore]

i second a box of potting vermiculite will do the trick.

it will keep your spheres from rolling around

[Ray Laubs]

I use tangled up chain and nails.







(oh sorry, wrong thread)

I took a shelf plate and dirlled semispherical holes in it to sit marbles on, that keeps them from rolling, but you really have to watch your temperatures or youll get blips on the surface.
popcorn salt in a pan works great.

Ray

[Robert Coleman]

I have been using talc (not talcum powder as previously described) in the bottom of my annealer, a top loader, for 25 years. In that time I have only had one complete change, largely out of guilt. In between I have sifted the debris and occasionally added talc. I have it to a depth of about 3/4". After I empty the oven, I "rake" the talc with a flat piece of aluminum that is about 3" X 14" X 1/8" to get an even surface for the next session. The only cautions are: Don't inhale the material even tho it does look like a recreational drug, best not to drop your piece as it does cause a cloud, use a respirator when sifting or changing the talc, use a bit of care when removing the pieces as often there will be some stuck to them (I have a bench brush handy for that purpose). Your work will stand as placed and come out unmarked. Good luck, Bob

[Greg Vriethoff]

Originally posted by Nick Jones
I tenderly lower my work onto red satin sheets.
<3

I unlocked the secrets of anti-gravity.

[Nick Jones]

Originally posted by Greg Vriethoff
I unlocked the secrets of anti-gravity.

Remind me not to let you catch my work.

[David Patchen]

Anyone know where to get popcorn salt in quantity? 25lbs?

[Jordan Kube]

I've seen people use playground sand from homedepot or somewhere. I know Nowak uses it for his paperweights.

[Barb Sanderson]

Originally posted by Wes Hunting
use ho- made soft brick

So you don't make them yourself? :evil:

Barb

[Drew Fritts]

David,

Here's where I buy mine:

http://www.popthis.com/whitpopsal.html

Drew <+><

[Wes Hunting]

Originally posted by Barb Sanderson
So you don't make them yourself? :evil:

Barb

They are not very cost effective to make. They charge me buy the hour. :p

[Michael Hook]

Try plaster, cheap and readily available.