boxing in and hooding a glory.

[Scott Novota]

Anything I should be worried about here. I am thinking that I would like to box in the back/left/right side of my glory. Have the tanks outside the box, and vent up though the top of the shop.

Questions I have:

Is there such a think as too much pull on the hood?

Do think there would be enough heat going though the glory hood to warrent frax around the exhaust where it meets wood at the roof?

Would just the hood and no sides be a better idea?

Is there a no no to doing this. IE no galvanized or no (insert metal here) that I should not be using.

Best way to frame it. I assume you would support it from the celing and just hang the walls from the upper hood. Secure them to the floor and be done with it? Is there a better way maybe a steel frame?

Does this cause issues with air intake at all fror the glory?


Thanks.



Scott.
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[David Paterson]

Attached is a photo of the hood over my glory hole. The hood is on legs that support an angle iron frame. You possibly could hang the hood from the ceiling if you had a sheet metal shop make it for you. If you are going to make it yourself around an angle iron frame, put it on legs. It just means having the 4 corner posts longer.

The galvanized pipe that goes up through the roof is 12" diameter. This gives lots of natural draw. I also was forced to add a draft inducer to the pipe by the safety people. This wasnt really necessary, however it keeps the place a little cooler in the summer.

You should always have a flashing that keeps the pipe from touching the wood in the roof, even though the pipe may not get very hot. Check with the local building codes for the amount of clearance.

To give you some idea of scale, my glory is about 12" square on the inside and 2 feet across on the outside. The hood above it is quite large to make it possible to get up in there to change the burner head, etc.

If I lived in Florida, I would put removable sides on the hood. This would prevent a lot of the heat from radiating into the room. I would also add a draft inducer to help exhaust the heat.

When you say, "have the tanks outside the box", do you mean that there are propane tanks in the same room as the glory hole? If this is the case, I doubt that insurance or local building codes would be happy with it.

[Ken Peterson]

I think the most important thing is to light the hole, and figure out how the hot gas comes out the front and make sure that naturally enters the hood. Don't think you can alter that path with a fan cause it ain't gonna happen. Make sure the easiest way to get out of the hood is through the ducting (use large ducting, I think I used something like 20"). Get the hood as low as you can without it being in your way. Ideally you would want the only opening to the hood to be right above the glory hole door. The smaller the area entering your hood the better.

Where I live they want at least 1 inch space between the duct and combustables. I used double wall ducting but that may be an overkill. To give you an idea, my exhaust has no fan and runs at about 250 F at the exit. The thinkg works great.

Read steves pyrolisis thread from a while back if you want to freak yourself out.

galvinized is fine. Insulate the hood if you want your shop to be cooler. Make sure your air intake is outside the hood. The hoood shouldn't affect the air flow in the hole.

good luck
Ken

[Jane Greer]

I am in the process of building my studio in a commercial building and have an 18 inch glory with electric furnace and in submitting my plans to the city they never said anything about exhaust over my glory hole. I think this is because I have 2 massive fans on the wall to the right of the glory hole that when they are both on will open a steel industrial door. I have my permit and just got the final on my mechanical. Should I go back and exhaust the glory?

Thanks
Jane

[Dave Hilty]

You don't say how high your ceilings are or whether you have a hood planned over the glory and/or furnace??

I have a substantial CFM chicken building fan exhausting out the end of a hood (through the barn wall). I have no other exhaust for either the gas-fired furnace or glory & pipe warmer. The hood forms a plenum to capture the exhaust from all units & the fan pulling from inside the hood moves it out.

The key is adequate cfm exhausting from the hood which acts to capture the exhaust gasses from your appliances. In your case this would also trap off-gassing from your electric furnace during melts.

[Jane Greer]

Dave,
My ceilings are at least 12 ft and the fans pull about 1500 cfm. Does that help?

Jane

[Pete VanderLaan]

Originally posted by Scott Novota
Have the tanks outside the box,
Scott.
.

******
What does this mean?

[Pete VanderLaan]

Originally posted by Jane Greer
Dave,
My ceilings are at least 12 ft and the fans pull about 1500 cfm. Does that help?

Jane

*********
Plumbing code requires that the appliance have an exhaust stack usually, or at least that is what unimaginative code inspectors interpret it to say. If you don't have an exhaust for your glory HOLE then it needs to be in a sealed hood with positive pressure exhaust. That also implies a cold air intake.

At the beginning of the UFC or the UBC is a phrase saying "or acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction", meaning that the inspector can look it over and be creative. It is seldom used unfortunately.

Glory HOLES have never had exhaust stacks but nonetheless it is a constant issue with inspectors. 1500CFM is not much exhaust.

[Jane Greer]

Surprise, Surprise, Surprise, the Mechanical Inspector signed off on my permit, without any discussion of an exhaust hood,,,,,,,yeah!!!!!:D :D :D :D :D

[Scott Novota]

Ok here is the deal.


I have a gas fired glory that runs off of 40 pounds tanks. That makes it easy to change out and not to heavy to put in my truck to have refilled.

It is an open air working studio, but the equipment would be about 2 feet just inside the a 8 foot wide by 7 foot tall opening in the side of the garage. You can see the opening in the attached photo. Now I am currently lighting this up outside the garage but would like to move it inside under a hood.

I don't mind boxing it in completely but if I can just put a hood low enough to really pulled hard to keep it cool that would be great. So I have not done anything yet this is all still the planning stage.

[Ken Peterson]

Inspectors are so weird. I've spent so much time making one happy to find that another one doesn't even care. One says seal the hood up, the other doesn't even check. Kinda annoying. My inspector has been really concerned with carbon monoxide emissions during fire up to a dull glow. I built a hood cause my little garage turns into an oven without it.

Everybody's got a different opinion about exhaust. I know me and pete differ in opinion. I'm sure his works, as well as mine. I think the most important thing is that it works.

This is my passive system.

Good luck,
Ken

[Pete VanderLaan]

Do not box in Propane bottles. Do not put them in a hood. Do not have such large bottles in the building. The fire service is littered with incidents of bottles being knocked over and shearing the valves with the resultant explosion and fire destroying everything and killing more than just a few people.

I can understand five gallon bottles on torches indoors but this application is dangerous.

[Steve Stadelman]

Totally in agreement with Pete, valves shear even with the anti-shear shields. Plus slow leaks with Propane accumulate much worse than N.G. because it pools. Hard plumb the propane into the space and store the bottles outside.

[Scott Novota]

I have found a 6 foot wide 4 foot deep fry hood from a Waffle House that I am picking up this week(freebie). Also as luck would have it I have found the exact slimline 400 amp panel for the house, never been used and only dropped once, for 1/5 the price.

I have my electrician standing by to check it before I pay for it.


Scott.
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