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Wes Hunting
11-11-2007, 09:10 AM
Anybody have a good recipe for a kiln wash to be used as a release when slumping glass over steel. Im firing at around 1600.
It would be nice to compair recipes.

Jane Greer
11-11-2007, 09:24 AM
Wes,
I use the bullseye wash, just heat the steel up first so that it will adhere.
hope that helps.

Jane

Rosanna Gusler
11-11-2007, 12:43 PM
50/50 alumina hydrate/kaolin. 1600 is awfully high for a slump temp. i slump float at 1260-1300f. rosanna edit. i also add cmc for green strength.

Wes Hunting
11-11-2007, 01:29 PM
I need that temp for this project.That is my problem.

Rosanna Gusler
11-11-2007, 01:43 PM
if you want to reuse the mold think aqbout fresh kw for each slump. kw can go weird above 1400f or so on second uses. can fog the glass and or stick. rosanna

Jane Greer
11-11-2007, 02:28 PM
as long as you have multiples layers and reapply after each slumping, you should be okay. When i have to slump at that high a temp. I try to layer the mold with refract blanket so that then you don't have to worry about any sticking, but it depends on what kind of a shape you are trying to get. I have just used the mold as a support and the blanket as the actual mold with very good results.

Good luck

Jane

Rosanna Gusler
11-12-2007, 07:55 AM
so i am curious, why do you all need that high a temp? rosanna

Wes Hunting
11-12-2007, 06:01 PM
I am designing a 18 by 20 ft. glass and steel water feature for an entertainment company. It has sections in the design where glass flows through perforated steel to mirror the flow of the water on the side panels. I will post a photo after it is installed.

David Patchen
11-12-2007, 07:16 PM
That sounds like a fascinating project, congrats.

I use Bullseye kiln wash on kiln shelf and only refresh it every 6-12 months or so. It definitely gets way hotter than 1300 degrees and no sticking ever, as long as you're careful not to overheat.

I used to use steel plates and would just warm them up so that when I brushed on the wash it would quickly evaporate--this would make it stick nicely and enable me to put on 3-4 coats at once. Works like a charm for me. If it's too hot the wash just sizzles and doesn't stick so you need to be cooler than that.

Dave Bross
11-12-2007, 07:33 PM
The recipe Dudley has in his book works at high temps, or at least I was able to use it repeatedly for fire polishing stuff in a glory on a steel plate pastorelli.

nephelyne syenite - 160 grams
silica - 160 grams
bone ash - 140 grams
alumina hydrate - 40 grams
kaolin - 88 grams
macaloid - 2 grams ( Dudley said the macaloid is optional but makes the stuff apply better)
350 grams water

Rick Wilton
11-12-2007, 11:51 PM
I hope your using stainless steel as regular mild steel will spall like hell. I've sprayed stainless with Boron nitride and had good results.

http://www.fullcircleawards.com/architectural.htm

Rick

Rosanna Gusler
11-13-2007, 08:27 AM
oh, i see. that will be cool to see. if you are going to need to get the wash off the steel easily 25/75 kaolin/alumina will be better. folks on warmglass have reported problems with boron nitride at hotter temps. rosanna

Wes Hunting
11-13-2007, 08:31 AM
Thanks all!

Marty Kremer
11-23-2007, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by Rosanna Gusler
oh, i see. that will be cool to see. if you are going to need to get the wash off the steel easily 25/75 kaolin/alumina will be better. folks on warmglass have reported problems with boron nitride at hotter temps. rosanna

That's because they're using the cheap stuff and don't understand (won't listen to?) the different formulations of BN.

ZYP Coatings for more info.