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View Full Version : Small Glory Constuction Advice. - Little of my cullet exp so far.


Scott Novota
02-07-2008, 12:04 PM
Ok so I have been up and running in my shop for 3 months now. I had to admit that the spectrum nuggets are working out just fine. They are stiffer than SP, but much less stiff than c4. If SP was a 10 on the workability scale and Bottle glass was a 1.

Sp -10 - Longest working time, softer the longest. Everyone knows how to do this.

FHC- 8.5 - Softer than spectrum, Quick transition from stiff enough to work to locked up. Bubble fine out at 1950 no need to squeeze over a 24 hour period.

Spectrum - 8 - Not as soft as FHC, but a longer working zone. Load it at 2150, cook overnight at 2150, ramp down to 2100 can blow. Fines will be gone in my wire melter. Never got them to fine out over night any other way.

C4 - 5 - Stiffer than everything above, locks up pretty quick. 2125, cook over night, still had fines but they where so small it did not matter. Where gone the next day.

Bottle Glass - 1 - Well you know.

Just my personal observations above take with a grain of salt I am still pretty new to this.

Now onto the Glory hole question.

I would like to build a small glory for just paperweights, goblets, small pumpkins, shells, etc..etc.. All small stuff. I don't need the 16 glory for most of the stuff I do at the home shop and with the price of gas I was looking to shave some of that outgoing money down.

I was thinking about just making it square, with 1 inch fiber, and 1 inch board on the outside. IFB cut in 1/2 on the inside. Hold it in with what amounts to thick chicken wire and coat it with heat resistant paint. Build a retension ring out of IFB and leave it open...no doors.

5 inch oriface, 7 inch inside, propane fired with forced air.

#1. Does this sound like a good plan.

#2. What type of burner should I use for this.

#3. Any other advice very welcome.


Scott.
.

Jordan Kube
02-07-2008, 12:57 PM
I built a round glory hole with a 7-8" opening, 22.5" deep, three inch retention ring, no doors. Gets hot quick. It was fast to build and it will last forever. Once it gets hot I can dial it back pretty good.

Steve Stadelman
02-07-2008, 01:20 PM
Always build a glory so it can be dialed back, that is build with plenty of power even though you are trying to build it economical. If it's underpowered you will actually waste gas reheating slowly.

Dave Bross
02-07-2008, 01:28 PM
My small one:

http://talk.craftweb.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3151&highlight=glory

It has a door, this helps it come to heat super fast. Once hot it's usually mostly open.

The Reil burner link is obsolete but all that info is on another site. Google will take you there. I ended up building the 3/4" version with a #70 orifice. It's a little rich so maybe around a #73 might be better.

It was rigidized and hard coated with the two wesbond compounds i mentioned in the other post, wesolock d and RFC 17.

Scott Dunahee
02-07-2008, 07:38 PM
Tom Ash is now making a little 4" by 4" head that I'm just dying to use in a small glory hole. I'm gonna build a 16" hole this winter/spring and hope to use the leftover refractory to make a little 6" by 12-14" hole with this burner. It's $122 through Northwest Iron Works (http://www.nwironworks.com/burner_details.htm), or is at least listed on their site. I'm pretty sure that Tom also sells it directly.

I currently have a 10" by 16" hole with a 6" door that I almost never open that I'll end up storing when I build the bigger hole. With the little one, I'll be able to make a LOT of stuff and really reduce my gas usage except when the task at hand calls for the bigger hole.

BSD

Steve Stadelman
02-07-2008, 08:33 PM
If you buy direct from Tom you can spend 5 or 10 minutes on the phone with him and he can really lay out to you how to make it work really good.

Charlie Correll
02-29-2008, 09:36 AM
You will save a LOT of gas if you put a door on the Glory Hole. I used to make production goblets out of a 6" hole, and when I put the crude simple rig on it that is in the attachment, the gas went way down. A 2x4 over a cinderblock! With the pulleys and counterweight. It was pretty easy to get used to, and when you walk away, the door closes. You need stops on the door rail. The pulleys are garage door stuff, as is the cable and the wheels in the door, riding on a length of 1" angle iron set is a V formation. Shouldn't bee hard to make the lever system better, but this works!

Glenn Randle
02-29-2008, 01:11 PM
Charlie,
That's great! I've got a cinderblock & 2x4 .....somewhere around here. Simple is great.;)

Pete VanderLaan
02-29-2008, 06:40 PM
when we made color rods, we just made a simple door out of maronite board that we could hang in the opening of the furnace. It had a small opening and that way we could avoid using the gloryhole altogether.

Rick Sherbert
03-01-2008, 09:35 AM
Charlie,

If you block the opening completely, where is the exhaust? does it just eek out around the door or is there a small opening somewhere?

Charlie Correll
03-01-2008, 09:45 AM
Rick,

If you have a door rolling back and forth, you need a little clearance. On a six inch hole with even only 1/4 inch clearance, you have a total cross sectional area in that gap of 4.7 square inches, which is more than enough for the gasses to leave, even with the friction of a quarter inch gap. Plus the glory hole burner will be set a lot lower to maintain the temperature. As I recall, this thing cut more than a third off my consumption. Or you can mount a pipewarmer on the glory hole, or a recuperator, since with a door closed most of the time, the gasses will be forced through a pipewarmer or recuperator most of the time.