New glass sealant

[David Patchen]

I've used everything under the sun to seal sandblasted glass and each solution has its pros and cons. I thought I'd tried everything but another artist just turned me onto Rain-X. I've used the stuff on my windshield and side-view mirrors before but it actually works nicely to bring out the color on matte-finished sandblasted glass. It's not as satin shiny as Armor all but very simple to apply and doesn't wash off or leave fingerprints.

I have no idea if it will eventually evaporate off. Anyone else use it? Your experiences?

[Mark Halva]

I have used it quite a bit and found it to hold up well over time. On the pieces I have kept back for myself, about once a year I try to refresh them with a new coating. Bob Toesing actually turned me onto it, he used both ArmorAll and RainX. I prefer the RainX.

[Kenny Pieper]

The problem I have with any of these coatings like rainx, liquid luster, armorall is that they are all very temporary. They fade or dull with time and if anyone tries to clean an object treated with this stuff and uses a strong cleaner it will come right off.
Years ago I made a body of work that I wanted a satin surface on but did not want to deal with the acid. ...So I used the armorall over a sandblasted surface and knowing that it would not last I would give a small bottle and directions on how to apply it with each piece. But for me this to seemed too temporary and not fair for the customer not to mention that I didn't want people to see my work in the future with the surface blochy and dry.

[Tom Fuhrman]

I have used both and tell customers to semi annually coat the pieces again with either. It forces the customer to actually pick up your piece occasionally and touch it as opposed to it just sitting in a cabinet for years. It gives the client a chance to interact with the piece. I see it as being similiar to people having to oil pieces of furniture or polish furniture every so often. They have the chance to rediscover the reason they purchased the piece in the 1st place. Many of my pieces are tactile and not just visual so it gives them the necessity to touch it again.

[Eben Horton]

Ive seen people spray clear acrylic over a sanblasted surface with good permanent results

[Kenny Pieper]

Ive seen people spray clear acrylic over a sanblasted surface with good permanent results


Permanent results?

[David Patchen]

BTW, I really like liquid lust'r but I've had half cans dry out on me and given the cost of the stuff it pissed me off to throw away half-cans of it.

[Jud Scott]

BTW, I really like liquid lust'r but I've had half cans dry out on me and given the cost of the stuff it pissed me off to throw away half-cans of it.

fill the can with glass marbles as you use it. contact with air causes it to dry out, but if you keep the air out of the bottle, it will last much longer. I have a can that I have been using for 5 years, and its still good.

[Rich Federici]

David,
Wes mentioned a material called Permalac. We ordered it from Sculpt Nouvou(sp?). It comes in spray cans, and works great on sandblasted glass surfaces

[Wes Hunting]

http://www.peacocklabs.com/permalac.htm

works great. ten year tested, tastes great on seafood.

[Eben Horton]

Permanent results?

yes. try it

[David Patchen]

I tried permalac a few years ago and can't remember why I didn't like it. I think it was either spotty or wasn't shiny enough for my taste. Honestly I don't recall why it wasn't my thing.

I had marbles in with my liquid luster but I think the screw cap on the cans suck and don't seal well. So no amount of marbles will help if the cap allows for some air exchange. After two cans in the trash half used at $40 a piece I got too annoyed w/it.

I might try some clear acrylic as the price is right and I do like something that dries permanantly vs. armour all. I have no idea how long RainX sticks around but I don't like the idea of finding out the hard way.

I just started a new series and I'm going to hot-torch the section I'm currently cutting and grinding. Screw cold working!!

[Wes Hunting]

Permalac comes in a glossy or matte finish. I never had a problem with spotting or streaking. I also use it for a sealant on acid based patinas.
The luster will last longer if you put it in another container. We use ball jars.
Also we found it can be brought back to life if diluted with acetone.

[Guy Kass]

We've never used this stuff, but my supplier swears it's great.

Here is their link:

http://slee.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=NEW_CS_CLEARSHIELD_2008

If that link doesn't work, I'm thinking that this might be the actual manufacturer:

http://www.clearshieldonline.com/

[Marty Kremer]

Pledge.

temporary but the customers understand it and don't have any problems with the idea.

[Brian Blanthorn]

Pledge.

temporary but the customers understand it and don't have any problems with the idea.

Artist have been using wax for of years 1000 s of years, especially the metal workers pattinaters etc

A work from Tisu cant remember spelling but he did complex scroll work metal gates etc some 100 odd years ago, when a friend was repairing one / repainting it he noticed the guy had used a beeswax filler still Ok

Anyway on my pebbles I struggled with surfaces which R ground trying 2 get the texture matched up

Then I noticed the none sold returns were comming back greasy ( from handling )

After neumerous tryals I now use

Liquid parifin this wets the surface n scratches then

An old recipie normal hard candel wax with + genuine turpentine ( pre made )

Make a batch up of this up in a tin but dont set the place on fire n get the mix as soft / hard as U like 4 me this is like a hand cream not irritate my delicat sensitive skin



Once cold ------- apply the liquid parafin wipe off apply the wax mix leave if U can then wipe off

Smells nice n eventually leaves thin film of hard wax on the surface ........ Normal bought waxes R soft n evaporate eventually

This gives me greater surface control I can have rough surfaces with a lovely transparent feel as long as the surface is even

Looks permanant and I do say u can apply Pledge later if U want


Here r a few repair tips 2 go allong with this method

Very shallow surface cracks these R just from chopping out the glass fractures from grind n r not structural

Flame surface apply hard candel wax melt in this dissapears the tiny cracks not 2 hot now ........ note this is definately not a cure 4 aneal / compatability problems

Bubbles / small holes same again I also use a black wax crayon where appropriate

I have never had any of these repairs back ever in some 20 years


Another tip 4 users of linishers where U want an even surface

Stop belt n as it slowes wire brush belt accross or mayB do it stopped n move belt by hand this works well on a multy grain / conglomerate type of belt

Brian

[Alexander Adams]

I've used Penetrol. It is a paint conditioner for oil based paints. It also can be used to prevent rust on steel. It costs about $8 at you local home improvement center.

[Greg Vriethoff]

A work from Tisu cant remember spelling but he did complex scroll work metal gates etc some 100 odd years ago, when a friend was repairing one / repainting it he noticed the guy had used a beeswax filler still Ok

Just as a side note from the metalworking world, I'm going to assume that the gates in question are made of actual wrought iron (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrought_iron#Terminology). This goes a lot further in explaining why ornamental iron work from that period, and earlier, is in good shape. Beeswax, and beeswax based finishes, were used, but it's the corrosion resistance of the metal itself that has kept this stuff in such good shape. I'm pretty sure if these gates were made from mild carbon steel, there wouldn't be much left.

Wrought iron isn't made anymore, but people are starting to make a living off of salvaging the stuff (mostly old anchor chains) and selling it to blacksmiths.

I went off on this because I worked as a finisher (patinas, waxes, lacquers, etc) for a fab/smith shop, and I got sick of having to listen to "but why can't we do it? I saw these gates that were over a hundred years old, and they weren't rusty. They were outside too!"

Problems when a word or term is a noun and a verb.

Samuel Yellin (http://www.samuelyellin.com/history/) is a big name for those interested. For those in the Seattle area, the Seattle Asian Art Museum (http://www.seattleartmuseum.org/visit/visitSAAm.asp) (formerly the Seattle Art Museum) has a set of his gates permanently installed. Check 'em out.

[Alexander Adams]

Samuel Yellin was a genius! He was the best of the best. The smithing world will probably never see another like him again.

[Dave Bross]

Stepping back to the liquid luster...

The primary ingredient there is tung oil. It's an old timey wood finishing oil that's hardens when combined with a bit of cobalt or manganese. There's plenty of info on how to batch it up and control its "strike" (hardness) available via Google.

And now it's off into the esoteric...

Tung oil is derived from the seeds of a tung oil tree. The seeds are enclosed in a big "fruit". There used to be large groves of tung trees in Florida. An old timer who managed one said that a big problem in the 1960s was keeping tourists from climbing the fence, stealing the tung fruits and eating them. They're poisonous.

[David Patchen]

I just tried Clearshield (http://www.clearshieldonline.com/) and it seems pretty nice although it takes a lot to fully seal the surface and it's not lustrus at all--quite matte. It feels/smells a lot like Rain-X.