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View Full Version : 18" Glory Hole Build


Ben Lang
03-23-2011, 03:55 PM
I have been building a large glory hole and have been taking pictures thru the process. Everything but the doors are done. I will continue to update the pictures as it is finished, installed and fired up. Click the link to enjoy.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=112582995510904193943&target=ALBUM&id=5587352078942654929&authkey=Gv1sRgCNq68MCA0azF9wE&invite=CL_qztMC&feat=email

Jordan Kube
03-23-2011, 04:51 PM
Ribbon burner pointed straight at the work is just about the worst way to build them. Otherwise looks pretty nice.

Pete VanderLaan
03-23-2011, 05:04 PM
what a nice mixed message.

Ben Lang
03-23-2011, 05:16 PM
Thanks Jordan. I have really liked seeing some of the pictures that you have posted of the equiptment that you have built. For future reference, would you place the burner at 45 degrees coming down from the top?

Josh Bernbaum
03-23-2011, 05:50 PM
I agree with Jordan. Next time, try to move the burner port up off center so that the flame swirls around in there.

What happens to that black plastic bag under your front casting?

Pete VanderLaan
03-23-2011, 06:20 PM
While the construction is really nice, I see a fatal flaw in my opinion. Unless I read the softbricks wrong in the picture, they appear to be a 2300F brick which is not going to last long at all. at normal operating temperatures. 2600F will give you trouble after about 16 months. I prefer a 2800F brick based on years of building gloryholes that aren't nearly as pretty,

Am I reading it wrong?

Ben Lang
03-23-2011, 08:20 PM
The 2300 are for a pipe warmer. I used 2800 for the glory hole. The 2300 box was for the scrap cut offs.

Thomas Chapman
03-23-2011, 09:32 PM
Is that hole essentially a 20-inch configuration with an 18-inch retention ring? Or thereabouts?

Mike Hanson
03-24-2011, 12:37 AM
Really clean work Ben, nice shop too. I bet it will run as nice as that V-Twin in the background... Thanks for the pics.

Charles Friedman
03-24-2011, 01:23 AM
What is the measurement between the inside of retention ring and the front edge of the burner block? Paint it.

Patrick Casanova
03-24-2011, 09:30 AM
My only suggestion would be to put that blower in a corner somewhere, insulate it for noise reduction, and pipe it to the GH hard pipe with PVC pipe so you don't have to put up with the blower noise. There is no reason to have the blower there. Quiet is nice!

Ben Lang
03-24-2011, 10:22 AM
Thanks Guys. The Retention ring is just a bit under 2". The overall inside diameter is 22". It is an extremly long interior at 33" deep from the front of the retention ring. I really like to make long pieces. The distance from the inside of the retention ring to the front of the burner is 5". As an afterthought, I would have put the burner back just a little farther in the hole and on a tangent. I have worked in a similiar hole with the same configuration and really liked it. So this is what is familiar to me and works. The bar hopper is the second bike that I have built. I wouldn't do that again. Too many long hours working on projects. I just want to blow glass!

Jeff Thompson
03-24-2011, 11:23 AM
I used that size blower on my 17" glory hole (with that ribbon burner) and it did not give nearly enough air. You will need a much more powerful blower. I know what your thinking.... "this is the blower that pine ridge told me to get." That does not matter, you need a more powerful blower.

Also, why are you mounting that huge blower to the glory hole? The blower is the noisiest part of the whole set-up. Do your ears a favor and put your new blower in a remote location. PVC is cheap and everyone will appreciate being able to hear you yell at them.

David Patchen
03-24-2011, 11:25 AM
That thing is beautiful, nicely done. The shop looks awesome as well--professional machine shop?

Jeff Thompson
03-24-2011, 11:35 AM
Also, the holes in your homemade mixer look way too big! The copper pipe inside the 2" airline.... yeah, those holes should be more like 1/8 inch or maybe less.

Thomas Chapman
03-24-2011, 01:10 PM
If I recall my injector is about 1/4 inch i.d. I also really like to inject the gas three or four feet from the burner, going through a couple of elbows. This helps the mixing and makes for more a complete and economical combustion.

Eben Horton
03-24-2011, 01:36 PM
Nice hole! one thing i am going to do if i build a new G-hole for me or myself is to have the fab shop roll a drum that has an open seam with an angle iron flange up each edge of the seams. That way, you can line it with brick, then clamp down on that angle iron flange to compress it all together. Then if you ever need to rebuild, just remove the clamps on the flange.

Jeff Thompson
03-24-2011, 02:22 PM
Also, the holes in your homemade mixer look way too big!


It looks like you got a mixer thats made by Pine ridge! I guess thats how they do it now. I built mine 10 years ago.....

What kind of door system are you planning?

Ben Lang
03-24-2011, 02:59 PM
Actually, The only item purchased from Pine Ridge Burner was the burner. Although, you can buy those items from Pine Ridge and save yourself the hassle of tracking down parts and part numbers and get everything all at once, I have accounts with those parts manufacturers. I bought the parts and built the mixer myself, hence the 1/4 diameter holes in the mixer. It is easy enough to make it a smaller diameter if needed, by buying another copper expansion tube and drilling smaller holes.

Scott Novota
03-24-2011, 03:12 PM
Either way man that whole thing looks really clean and well built to me. If you have experience with the way you built it having used it somewhere else then I am sure you are going to love the action you get out of it. Seeing how it was designed to mimic your previous experience I hope it works just as you expect.

I only wish I could make something that nice and clean.

Ben Lang
03-24-2011, 03:13 PM
The door system is going to run vertical up and down. I will eventually add an electical gear driven system with a foot pedal to open and close the door. I added a picture of my friends 18" GH to the link. My Glory is modeled after his and works very well. As for the noise that the blower makes I can hardly hear anyway from riding loud motorcycles, listening to loud stereos and working in the machine shop. Ohh...The things that I would change.

Cheyenne Malcolm
03-24-2011, 03:43 PM
I do a lot of roll ups so side and angle mount heat my plates uneven. Different strokes for different blokes. I have talked to Tom Ash and he agrees you do not need to tangentially angle those burners if there is only one. Spiral arts you should angle tangentially. How do you replace retention ring? I am currently building a 12" hole for someone and I will try to post some pictures. Lookin good.

Marty Kremer
03-30-2011, 10:21 PM
re the last 2 photos: how do you keep the place so clean?

Thomas Chapman
03-30-2011, 11:38 PM
On my current rebuild I am employing the "freestanding ring" concept, The F.R.R. is cast as a 'donut' and mounts at the front face of the glory, "floating" flushly or semi-fastened to protect the glory liner and to retain the flame, yet "removable" for the R&R recast when required. [Plus gives you a deeper glory].
Kast-o-lite 30 L.I. (low iron). That's the only k.o.l. 30 available locally. They last over ten years, wtf.

Pete VanderLaan
03-31-2011, 06:31 AM
re the last 2 photos: how do you keep the place so clean?
*************
It's photoshopped

Ben Lang
03-31-2011, 03:39 PM
re the last 2 photos: how do you keep the place so clean?

Photoshop CS5 and a fulltime Janitor.

Rahman Anderson
04-01-2011, 09:12 AM
Just a few words in case people are unclear on the burner debate. I want as even temp in a g-hole as possible. Propane/air flame is 3596 degrees. I think a g-hole should usually be in the 2100- maybe as hot as 2500. The theory as it was taught to me is to try and put the flame around the outside of the hole and heat up the bricks. Let the bricks heat the glass all nice and even. With the flame pointed center it will be directing 1100 degrees too much heat at only the part of the piece that is in the flame. I have seen people do some dances and make it work for somethings. I also was told I was heating in the wrong place all day. I have seen the details in beautiful sculpture melted out from a few hours of flashing in the flame. I know some people love ribbon burners. In my theoretical perfect hole the retention ring is one third of the I.D. and the small round flame is tucked away behind it where it doesn't always hit some part and not another part of what I am heating. Just as I understand the principles being referenced. If it works then it isn't wrong. I am a believer in doing it anyway you can. I fault none who is loving what they do and what they are doing it with. I'll tell you having my own shop I feel for everyone I gave hard times to for things not being just right. My god I just love my off the shelf ceramic kiln furnace. For what it can do and has done for most of a year it is great. Just limiting. Can't keep temp for rapid gathering. I feel like the flame working glory is the same, works for somethings, just not ideal for everything. And will your punty be trusted to tell you about my heat anymore? My 2 cents.

Franklin Sankar
04-01-2011, 08:42 PM
Rahman, I just discovered a few months ago that a cold GH was hindering my progress. I was stuck doing the same thing over and over. Getting the GH hot is another story. ANy clever hints on how to get the right angle to shoot the flame so it makes the perfect swirl.
How did you get 1100....QUOTE....With the flame pointed center it will be directing 1100 degrees
Franklin

Rahman Anderson
04-01-2011, 10:09 PM
I just meant the flame is theoretically that much hotter then the temp in the g-hole. I have a round spiral arts burner. I just had enough room to play with it until I thought it was as good as I was gonna get. I used c-clamps to try slightly different positions before I welded anything. It wants to follow the wall around. The round flame is longer then the ribbon. A ribbon burner might be less able to swirl around as far. It is nice to be able to drive the g-hole at will. Somethings want to be hotter then others. It is ideal to be able to move the temp up and down even for different times in the same piece. My fav was a two stage regulator for controlling the gas. Franklin do you have a retention ring? It will help keep heat. My hole is small and with one spiral arts burner I sometimes struggle to get it to run cold enough. My ideal retention ring seems large but it is so nice to have heat right at the front of the hole, as crisp a line as possible makes everything easier.

Evan Jenkins
04-02-2011, 04:13 AM
A retention ring is always a good way to preserve some heat in the hole when the doors are opened all the way. The ability to close the doors behind the piece while it is being heated can also work the same way. Just want to give my two cents for a "re'hugh'perated" glory, the real beauty of the design is that by the end of the day I am running the gas at about half of where it was set at the beginning of the day and getting the same heat. The old man doesn't toot his own horn on these discussions, I'm sure he will get a laugh out this though. I could get as much heat as I want out of the unit once it is fully "up to heat" and can turn it down as low as I like (with a compressed air jet burner it is almost imposible to create a backfire). We saw Charlie Correll's recuperated glory at the GAS and it was a nice piece of equipment as well. They both have incorporated a dual burner set up that makes working more like a ribbon burner, but has some nice hots spots for specific heating which I have always liked in giberson burner setups.

Pete VanderLaan
04-02-2011, 05:47 AM
Not only do I want a gloryhole to have hotspots, I also want the burner(s) a bit back in the glory hole for a specific reason: If you do fume ( which curiously I don't), if you fume a piece and get it in the direct path of the burner, it will ruin the fume. Even though I don't fume today, who knows what desperate move I might make in six months?

If you don't use a retention ring on a gloryhole, you can pretty much forget about spot heating.

I have seen Hugh's recuperation setups and they are remarkable and well worth buying. I am fortunate enough to work with Charlie Correll another great old warhorse.

Evan Jenkins
04-02-2011, 03:07 PM
I forgot to mention, I think Ben built a really sweet Glory hole.

Glenn Randle
04-02-2011, 06:39 PM
Pete,

What does a retention ring have to do with spot heating? Seems to me the burner type & direction affect whether you get spot heating or not, but how does a retention ring come into play?

Pete VanderLaan
04-02-2011, 07:26 PM
The retention ring keeps heat from dissipating out the front. The hole is kind of useful for only heating the lower half of the piece, or just the base. Try it without a retention ring.

Franklin Sankar
04-02-2011, 08:39 PM
Thanks for the replies. Yes I do have a retention ring but need to make the lip larger. To do that makes the hole smaller so I need to make a bigger GH.
I remember Ed Skeels closes his door when not in use and that is a good strategy to save fuel, I think. But you need some controls.
For now I need hot hot. Hot spot can wait for later.
Love first kinky stuff later.:)
Franklin

Hugh Jenkins
04-03-2011, 12:12 AM
Thanks Evan for the support!

There is an issue about some glory hole burners that I do not understand the basis for. I have seen burners angled to completely miss hitting the work under any circumstances. Often they point down at the floor and swirl up the opposite wall. What does this gain?

I do not shoot the flame directly at the center of the glory hole. But, I can set everything up level, and shoot across above center. The flame is accessible if that is wanted, and swirls down on the opposite wall. It would not impinge on a pastorelli.

So my question is, why shoot the flame at the floor rather than the upper chamber walls?

Pete VanderLaan
04-03-2011, 06:22 AM
The only basis I see for flame deflection is that direct flame ruins a fume. That's it. Fritz always liked a fairly cold glory hole and I wanted it smoking hot. He did a lot of bit running on his work though.

John Gibbons
03-04-2013, 12:51 PM
Hello Ben,

First, nice work!

Second, I am building a glory about the same size and am wondering if you could help me on a few things, did you use "bulk fiber" or fiber blanket to cram into the sides of the glory and did you do it after you mortared all the bricks together? How long did you let the mortar dry before cramming the fiber? Did you wet the fiber before you crammed it? how many inches thick did you make the fiber?


Thanks for any help and nice photos on the project.

John Gibbons

Peter Bowles
03-07-2013, 11:40 AM
If you are planning on building a rolling yoke, you may need to rethink the support brace bottom front.
I'd also be inclined to move the blower off the frame, noise for one thing, but also the vibration may end up driving you nuts.

Brian Alloway
03-14-2013, 11:58 AM
Very Nice. How did you get your mortar lines so clean? I agree with the burner port suggestion. I casted ours out of castalite 30 and put it to about a 10 degree angle. My only major suggestion is next time try casting the O ring and the back wall independant of the main hole. Basically I make the tube then bolt the rear on, munt the hole tot the fram and then bolt the o ring on. that way everything is independant. that way you don't have to cast the back down into the hole and if the o ring fails you can simply unbolt it and then recast it. How did your doors go? I'm looking for suggestions for stronger doors as we are school and they take a ton of abuse. Cheers