View Full Version : Glory Hole Repairs

Dave Hilty
07-30-2012, 05:03 PM
So after 15 years of service my war-horse (Thank you Charlie Correll) of a Glory Hole is finally getting some much needed and overdue repairs. Will be sourcing Morcolite 30 and casting a door and one of the three cast flame retention ring pieces.
My first question is probably a dumb one: Since this castable wants a fairly tight firing schedule is it lunacy to cast the bottom retention ring block in place and do a slow and not very controlled firing in place with the glory burner? Probably better to make a mold and fire it in my anealling oven and then mortar into place right?

Second, in previous postings folks have mentioned a vibrating or mixing device that can eliminate voids/air from the castable. what is that technique in detail and is this done to the mix before you pour into the mold?

I am amazed that the burner block and the burner itself continue to show no signs of any real wear.

Pete VanderLaan
07-30-2012, 05:42 PM
I think that kast-o-lite 30 is probably a better material. Missouri refractories really shines on the high alumina castables but I never though that much of their "Lite" products.
If by bottom retention ring, you mean the inner ring, yes cast it in place if you can and heat the whole thing with a light bulb initially.Otherwise just cast it and mortar it in. My inner ring is cast in a square shape and is the same size as the outer frame of the gloryhole. I think there's a million ways to do that.

Josh Bernbaum
07-30-2012, 09:36 PM
Dave I worked for Charlie for 9 years. The later-model GH's I did
when there, and the ones I made for my own holes have retention
rings cast in 3 separate pieces, but in the same mold sectioned off
with aluminum flashing to make the seams. Piece that gets positioned
on bottom (most potential glass contact there) got Greencast 94.
Other 2 sections got Mizzou. We never mixed wet enough so
that the consistency would benefit from vibrating to remove
bubbles. I wouldn't worry about air trapped in there, to a degree.
What's most important is your mix and how much you properly
tamp it into place. It's gonna be tough to cast one of those three in place, but the bottom not as hard as the top 2. Just treat it as you would any unfired
castings and be gentle at first with the flame you put in there and take
your time with it. I like Kastolite 30 for the doors. PM me if you want Charlie's number for further advice.

Pete VanderLaan
07-31-2012, 05:36 AM
I'm pretty sure Charlie is at Spruce Pine babysitting a big furnace.

Dave Hilty
07-31-2012, 06:50 AM
Josh, thanks for the inside scoop! Yup, the bottom casting was pretty much trash from glass drippings over the years and the inner door took a hit from that same source. I'll track down some green cast and try the in place route. I actually have Charlie's number but didn't want to bug him for what seemed like pretty basic stuff. He has been too kind with advice over the years when I would get myself in a corner and didn't know the way out.

Josh Bernbaum
07-31-2012, 07:35 AM
Just make sure the Greencast is the 94, not the other one they offer. Mix it with as little water as you can get away with for the casting-in-place option so you can combat gravity for doing that bit of a curve. If you have any more questions , I'll try to answer if I can.

Mark Rosenbaum
07-31-2012, 09:55 AM
I'm pretty sure Charlie is at Spruce Pine babysitting a big furnace.

I hope so, I need some glass!!!!!!

Pete VanderLaan
07-31-2012, 10:39 AM
It is indeed coming. They will send me all the early stuff to run it through it's paces including dilatometry, expansion and viscosity plus ease of melt and then it will come out at four tons a day... Charlie is one nervous momcat right now.

John Riepma
07-31-2012, 05:32 PM
Dave, I sent you a PM.

Dave Hilty
08-09-2012, 02:05 PM
The last time I cast a door for the furnace I used a piece of plate glass for the cold face (poured with hot face up and steel frame cold face down). Reason was to get a decent release once the initial dry/cure was complete. Problem was it wouldn't release and I really took some gouges out of the outside of the door as I tried to cut it away from the glass.

Is there a standard release forumula for doing these castings that resists the castable from grabbing the smooth mold bottom?

Cecil McKenzie
08-09-2012, 02:10 PM
tincture of greensoap might work for you or just dish soap maybe.

Steve Stadelman
08-09-2012, 03:09 PM
Crisco. Works for glass, wood, steel and Plastic forms with every cast able I have tried.

Rosanna Gusler
08-09-2012, 03:09 PM
murphys oil soap. rosanna

Dave Hilty
08-09-2012, 04:27 PM
Love the Crisco solution, Thanks guys!

Steve Stadelman
08-09-2012, 04:39 PM
I was at high-temp in portland years ago and they had an entire pallat of crisco in recieving. I asked and was told, mold release. It works great!

Dave Bross
08-09-2012, 04:57 PM
I have some fond memories of a party in the 60s involving lots of plastic sheeting, crisco and naked humans.

Just a thought for something to do while the castable sets up.