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-   -   Furnace build thread (http://talk.craftweb.com/showthread.php?t=7292)

Thomas Chapman 05-09-2011 02:11 PM

rewettable canvas
 
I don't know what dip lag is.
I use "rewettable canvas" over the frax on furnace tops and other places. It is woven with some powdery refractory stuff, and is worked with a scissors and spray bottle. It covers, sticks to itself, forms, and protects. Dries like shoe leather. Used a lot in asbestos containment. Call an asbestos abatement place. It is something like 50 inches wide and sold by the yard. Works great for containing frax fibres. Hope this helps.

Pete VanderLaan 05-09-2011 05:00 PM

Sounds like dip lag

Lawrence Ruskin 05-09-2011 06:07 PM

Yep, that helps a lot.

There must be some of that in this town.

Ive seen it, they use it to wrap steam pipes to hold the insulation on.

Thanks buddy, I just didn't put the two together...

Rosanna Gusler 05-11-2011 11:13 AM

could i use that (dip lag) to make a slumping mold? rosanna

Pete VanderLaan 05-11-2011 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosanna Gusler (Post 96644)
could i use that (dip lag) to make a slumping mold? rosanna

**************
No.

Rick Sherbert 05-12-2011 03:34 PM

Hey Lawrence,

From your drawing and photos, I'm calculating your sill height to be 27.75 to 29" off the floor. Is that right? Seems a little low to me, is that right?

Thanks
Rick

Pete VanderLaan 05-12-2011 05:14 PM

you probably didn't know that Lawrence is three foot four....

Lawrence Duckworth 05-13-2011 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Sherbert (Post 96687)
Hey Lawrence,

From your drawing and photos, I'm calculating your sill height to be 27.75 to 29" off the floor. Is that right? Seems a little low to me, is that right?

Thanks
Rick

Right @ 30"........why would you say that's too low?
I read somewhere the lower the better.....should I raizrup

Rick Sherbert 05-13-2011 07:46 AM

Thats funny Pete..

@lawrence, no, it's just whatever you are comfortable with I guess. Mine is at 35, but maybe a little lower would be good.

Lawrence Duckworth 05-13-2011 08:19 AM

I don't really know what's comfortable yet but Im gonna try and cast some so things could get heavy

And yeah.....Pete is a funny man...making fun of short people is lots of fun, retards can be fun too

Larry Cazes 05-13-2011 12:46 PM

Lower is better for me. I always preferred the low Electroglass style ports.

Thomas Chapman 05-13-2011 01:24 PM

Old school comfort
 
It's always amazed me how folks will go out and build equipment just like they saw at university. Those benches that accomodate five-foot-four freshmen may not be comfortable for the six footer-plus pro building his own studio, but you see it all the time.
My glory hole yoke is 35 inches, my furnace sill is higher yet. You may see short benches, marvers, and holes described in Henry's bible. I prefer seeing into the holes without bending over. You see more "sitz" benches or stand-up benches all the time. People doing large heavy work may benefit from the lower configurations. Otherwise Ergonomics Rule!
P.S. When I saw Dick Marquis do a demo the first thing he did was to bring in four cinder blocks to raise the gaffer's bench, and he is not a tall man.

Pete VanderLaan 05-13-2011 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth (Post 96700)

And yeah.... retards can be fun too

***********
Now I didn't want to open up a confessional here. Keep it clean.

Patrick Casanova 05-13-2011 05:32 PM

Tom you are so right on ergonomics... I was amazed at how many tall people lowered their benches and their small glory holes down when they caught the Venetian Virus and they went from a good posture body position to a hunched over bend.

No offence Henry, but the same holds true for the swinging glory hole doors. I've never understood that one. But I'll bet 80% of the studios out there have them. Why have all that radiant heat pointed back at you? Sliding doors are easy to rig, most everyone has a compressor around the studio already so Pneumatics are easy to add. All the parts are readily available on EBay and industrial salvage yards.

Rick Sherbert 05-13-2011 09:02 PM

Never been a fan of barn doors, they didn't make much sense to me for the reasons stated. Sliding doors rule. I didn't know s#$% when I started (some say I still don't...) so I built to what seemed comfortable to me. It's different than some, but works for me. I love people that come in and say, "well that not the way (insert-famous-glass-god-here) does it..."
Took a class with Dante once and he said " I do it this way and it works for me" I love that. Doesn't say "This is how to do it, the only way" but "... this works for me" and lets you decide.

Rick Sherbert 05-13-2011 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth (Post 96700)
I don't really know what's comfortable yet but Im gonna try and cast some so things could get heavy

And yeah.....Pete is a funny man...making fun of short people is lots of fun, retards can be fun too

There shoud be a sarcasam icon....

David Russell 05-16-2011 07:57 AM

in the past i had good luck calling a couple companies and getting free "samples " of dip lag to "try the product out"and that stash lasted a couple of years........

Lawrence Duckworth 05-16-2011 06:51 PM

These are the controls that have been recommended for the 200#r.

1) PM6C1FA-AAAAAAA. $207.00ea. This is Watlow’s temperature control.

2) DC12-24L0-0000. $500.00ea. This is Watlow’s power control with current limiting and phase angle firing.

….Might be nice if Pete was BIG enough to share in detail what him and his buddy are using to run the 200# funrance they’re building:)

Lawrence Duckworth 05-24-2011 09:35 PM

..…here’s a close-up of some of my plumbing secrets….

Lawrence Ruskin 05-25-2011 09:06 AM

nick, nick
 
So I just pulled the elements out of my Stadel mini and I guess one of them moved and there is a nick about 1/8-3/16 deep in the wider part of one element.

So replace it, or put it back?

Pete VanderLaan 05-25-2011 11:44 AM

I assume by wider you mean thicker but you don't say where on that part. Does it still have continuity? If so and the nicked part isn't right up against the weld, I'd use it. Install the thing and check continuity again once you've tightened it all up.

Pete VanderLaan 05-25-2011 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth (Post 96967)
..…here’s a close-up of some of my plumbing secrets….

***********
Nice Lawrence . Is that the furnace drain?

Jordan Kube 05-25-2011 12:04 PM

A picture would help

Lawrence Duckworth 07-10-2011 10:38 AM

Here are a few photos of the control panel that showed up Friday.

:confused::confused:

Pete VanderLaan 07-10-2011 01:55 PM

What do you mean by "Showed Up" I thought you were going to build it.
Experience tells me that the transformer gets pretty hot- as in a 150C rise. I would suggest not having the two cases actually touching each other in the interests of dissipating heat. How are you planning to bring out the cables to the element banks?


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