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Scott Novota 02-17-2020 08:43 PM

Help in sourcing Cables for Moly Furnace
Does anyone have a source for replacement cables that run from the transformer to the elements for the stadleman glass furnaces? Those dogs are thick and I have been less than successful locally.

I guess I could just call canned heat or Wet Dog but I figured one of you guys might know off the top of your heads.


Bill Worcester 02-17-2020 09:31 PM

Welding supplies
Check with local welders or welding suppliers.

Pete VanderLaan 02-18-2020 07:24 AM

Specialty Hardware in Seattle is where you want to be. It's a maritime supply for electromagnet operations. Get the 300MCM stranded as a preference over the 0000 (four ought). Get 600MCM burundy clamps from your local electrical supply house ( not home depot) as it's really hard to get the 300 cable into a 300 clamp. Or, have it hydraulically squeezed. Use Noalox. It should cost you around $8.00-$9.00 a foot. Get your cable two feet longer than you need so you can cut it down a few times.

I still have a bunch of braided straps I'll sell.

Josh Bernbaum 02-18-2020 12:23 PM


Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan (Post 146858)
as it's really hard to get the 300 cable into a 300 clamp. Or, have it hydraulically squeezed. Use Noalox.
I still have a bunch of braided straps I'll sell.

You don't use Noalox at the stripped cable-end to clamp connection, do you? I thought it was just recommended where the straps meet the clamps and other straps.

Pete VanderLaan 02-18-2020 02:03 PM

I never put noalox on the actual clamp to element connection. However between cables and at the end joint of the 300MCM cable always did get it in my world.

Shawn Everette 02-18-2020 02:45 PM

Ditto. I had a lot of failures with the aluminum clamps corroding and shorting, probably once a month at the beginning of grad school. Once we switched to the brass clamps and covering everything in noalox that fixed the shorts, other problems elsewhere.

John Riepma 02-18-2020 03:25 PM

My electrician friends tell me that it's not necessary on copper-copper connections but probably won't hurt anything. It's call NoAlOx because it's supposed to specifically prevent oxidation on aluminum connections, especially aluminum-copper connection.

So if you get your [u]copper[u]cable ends crimped on (recommended) by a welding supply house, you may ask them to use NoAlOx on the crimp but don't be surprised or alarmed if they decline or say that it's not necessary.

I do strongly endorse getting the ends crimped on if you can find a supplier with the right equipment to do that. It's absolutely the best connection method for the current load you're dealing with. Mine are about 17 years old. and still looking good.

Also, as has been mentioned, it's a great idea to have a spare cable made up and on-hand. It may be hard to get to the front of the line when the need arises.

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