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Old 02-12-2018, 10:09 PM
Marc Carmen Marc Carmen is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Jersey
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I'm with Kenny on light translucent route. In my experience, a nice thick layer of barely striking opaline as an underlay has a much more beautiful effect than relying on blowing a commercial color thin until translucent. Perhaps this approach allows more light scattering within the color layer. Just think of how beautiful a nice chunk of cast opaline glass looks. Also, a thick layer of lighter opaline in blown work is much less temperamental in terms of striking inconsistencies and tool marks, etc. To me that is the beauty of making your own opaline, the fact that you can use a very low amount of phosphate in your formula and then be generous with the amount of rod you use in each piece.

Jordan do you have pics of work made from this formula struck right from the pot? I always made my melts into color bar but it still seemed to strike dense if I took a gather over a cold crack-off moile at about 1.25% phosphate. Never really had to resort to boron or lithium. Replacing the rest of the calcium with barium may be all the fluxing action you need. I was using a wire melter too but never tried those higher %'s of phosphate.

Thanks Dave for that thread a few years back!
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