Thread: ring tests
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Old 12-10-2016, 04:13 PM
Pete VanderLaan's Avatar
Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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my experience tells me that if the thing survives the sawing, It's likely to be compatible. My rings tend to be kind of thick and the ratio of each type of glass not so perfect. BUT if they survive the saw and then I can score it vertically and tap it open, I can see something I can judge. It really will break on the saw right away if it's out by much. A piece pf paper thickness would be a nice fit in my book. I do like to get it to just sit there.
My great advantage is that both types of glass are always batch glasses and that gives a real advantage when you're making the adjustments. I find that particularly true if you are putting a bunch of stuff in your batch that is not factored by E&T. The Third edition of Glassnotes had a huge error in it that listed factors for metallic oxides. That came from Paul Manners back around 1976 where he included a set of factors that were commissioned in the enamelling industry in I think 1925. They were based in a completely different temperature range than the ASTM standard dictates. In the fourth edition, I had pointed out that they should not be in there and Henry removed them.

Appen has some numbers for the colorant metals but you have to use the whole system and then you really want to do mole calculations, not percentages.Running a set of factors for the colorants is something that is still missing. The big glassmakers simply don't care since they never laminate production stuff.

Scott Benefield, who is a far more skilled glassworker than I am was able to do live tests on the blowing floor making thin blown rings. I never had the skills or the assistant it needed.Nice to get fast results though. When you pop them clean, the expansion is really exaggerated and takes some sober breaths to work with.

I do think that the ring coupled with the Hagy seal is a good combo. Learn to make seals. Pull tests can be very deceptive. I remember Ed Skeels doing cane pulls that looked terrible and then he annealed them and they came out absolutely straight.

The real trick is to not kid yourself on fit. When a piece blows up, we all have a weird way of rationalizing it. That's not good. Eventually the physics will have it's way. In this tortured round I've done recently with mating my unoxidized color batch replete with the tin and silver to the clear Tom mixes per my specs, I knew I had issues yet I had pieces that went through grinding and were set aside. Most broke after about six weeks. Some have yet to break. If you sell it, it will break soon. When I'm doing this junk, I still need to write on every piece the date and the batch info.

Trying to make everything perfect through the whole color system will make you crazy.Just remember the A to B to C logic I occasionally refer to. Whenever you try to put fifteen colors in one piece, Buddha's nose is getting quite out of Joint and he calls in Heidi Broderbund and her 15% rule. At that point you need really good muck boots for the deep shit you will find yourself in.
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