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  #51  
Old 04-18-2019, 12:19 PM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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Before, way before. The final nail in the coffin came when a renter decided to do a plaster cast in it ... and forgot to put the thermocouple back in.
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  #52  
Old 04-18-2019, 01:20 PM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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well, given the construction, eventually the room would come up to temperature if you know what I mean.
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  #53  
Old 04-18-2019, 01:47 PM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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I did a complete overhaul, 20 gauge sheet metal seems like a poor choice for framing material. That one was ancient, still had the old rheostat controls.
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  #54  
Old 04-18-2019, 01:57 PM
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Richard Huntrods Richard Huntrods is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Kaltenbach View Post
I've been thinking about this. How hot would the exterior likely reach? I don't want to skin it with galvanized metal if it's too hot.
Randy, sheet metal is a terrible skin. The expanded steel mesh is much better as it doesn't become a radiating surface like the sheet.

My annealer is a 17" kiln, brick with 1/4" frax and then sheet metal. At 920 you can get an instant 2nd degree burn if you touch it with your knee. (ask me how i know!).

My furnace has more insulation (1" rigid board, 2" roxul) and expanded mesh. At 2100F the exterior is 150F (measured). Hot, but you can touch it and not get burned. I've put my hand on it for 20-30sec without ill effect.

Part of that is the much greater insulation around the brick 'hot zone', but the expanded mesh is just a much superior "skin". If you worry about fiber 'bits' in the air, just spray paint the thing with black hi-temp engine paint. Works wonderfully.
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  #55  
Old 05-27-2019, 01:41 PM
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Randy Kaltenbach Randy Kaltenbach is offline
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So ...

I read Dudley's GREAT material, picked up a drafting software package and was well on the way to figuring out optimum soft brick layout etc. When doing a quick supplier check on some materials, I stumbled across an old Skutt model K top load ceramics kiln for $300, called the guy and talked him down to $220 CDN, moved it into my garage, and now I'll simply fix it up (needs some TLC) and add a controller.

I may modify it to add a bead/parts door.

Not optimal but WAY cheaper! At least it's a start.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
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  #56  
Old 05-27-2019, 03:12 PM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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It's much better than starting with a large mailbox.
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  #57  
Old 05-27-2019, 07:24 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Kaltenbach View Post
So ...

I read Dudley's GREAT material, picked up a drafting software package and was well on the way to figuring out optimum soft brick layout etc. When doing a quick supplier check on some materials, I stumbled across an old Skutt model K top load ceramics kiln for $300, called the guy and talked him down to $220 CDN, moved it into my garage, and now I'll simply fix it up (needs some TLC) and add a controller.

I may modify it to add a bead/parts door.

Not optimal but WAY cheaper! At least it's a start.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
Great starter kiln for sure. Parts door is definitely a valuable addition.
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  #58  
Old 05-28-2019, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
It's much better than starting with a large mailbox.
I know you can build this with a manual controller for less then a hundred dollars. Honestly I built this kiln about 20 years ago and it still gets used regularly. Some fiber insulation, a 15 amp element and oven switch. It’s hard to beat simplicity.
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  #59  
Old 05-29-2019, 09:17 AM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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I had one here for years built out of a stainless dishwasher. When replaced, it was put in storage, not chucked.
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  #60  
Old 05-29-2019, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
I had one here for years built out of a stainless dishwasher. When replaced, it was put in storage, not chucked.
That’s brilliant. The restaurant dishwashers have a guillotine style door. Save one of those from the scrapyard and make a nice kiln out of it. I’m going by my favorite picking place today I might just have to see if there’s one laying around. I was once told “you must have a 100 kilns” I figure one more won’t hurt anything.
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  #61  
Old 05-29-2019, 10:52 AM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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we regularly took that lab unit up to 1500F which was hard on the hinges but that was the only issue. I used it primarily for fusing Mary Beth's stuff and for heating up color rods. It was still working just fine when I took it out of service after around 20 years. I've seen larger ones made out of restaurant refrigerators. I like that sort of stuff.

John Nickerson built one at one point with Eisenglass or pyrex ( I forget) in the front and he would take stuff up to slumping temps and then manipulate the piece with two rods he had stuffed in the openings like on a sandblaster.

The good old days when you couldn't buy tools. John Bingham and I built virtually all of the big roughers we used. It would take an old Lang base and rework it. Nick did some fabulous drawings of how to do that for the Hot Glass Information Exchange that we published back in 1979. Those drawings are clear as a bell. We made the wheels from drops in bridge abutment steel and those beasts were up to 2 inches thick by a minimum of 30 inch diameter. They weighed up to five hundred pounds and I think cost about 100 dollars each after being clear faced on both sides with a center punch of 1.29. You needed about five friends to change a wheelhead.

"You must have 100 kilns" Amen to that.
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