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Old 04-24-2019, 11:09 AM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Wire elements

I assume the longer you power your wire elements the shorter the lifespan. So does shutting it down like weekend warriors extend the life?
Where do you get your wires from?
The last time I got mine from Toronto. Looking for a us supplier.
How about China ��. Do they work well?

Franklin

Last edited by Franklin Sankar; 04-24-2019 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 04-24-2019, 11:25 AM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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Longer you have it on yes. The temperature determines the speed at which they degrade while it's on. 2100 lasts 6 months, 2300 lasts 6 weeks.
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Kube View Post
Longer you have it on yes. The temperature determines the speed at which they degrade while it's on. 2100 lasts 6 months, 2300 lasts 6 weeks.
It's a little more then that. Watt loading, the more wire you can cram in there the better. Wire gauge, thicker wire will last longer as it offers more support and doesn't laydown as quickly. Type of element support, deep groves means more heat around the elements sometimes leading to early failure. Type of controller, SCR will extend element life greatly as it will not blast full power to the elements but only what is needed. If your SCR has gain control you can adjust it down to reduce max amount of power. I get well over a year of continuous use on a home build invested pot furnace with Denver style elements in the crown. I use that furnace to melt a lot of pot colors and never push my temps over 2,000f.

Would I get more life if I shut it down when I leave for shows? Maybe but it's not worth the abuse the refractories take going up and down. I think elements suffer the most coming up to temp and during charging. Whenever it's calling for full power it's really working hard otherwise it's just costing along. The oxides that form on the elements insulates them. I have seen elements laying over flat on themselves and not shorting out because of that oxide layer. I suspect when you bring your furnaces up and down that oxide layer can be damaged and may result in shorter life.
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:34 PM
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Dudley winds elements and is worth a shot to see if he can ship them to you. He is one of the nicest guys on the planet.
http://www.joppaglass.com

The element papers Dudley printed years ago really helped me. If it's on his web page it is worth printing and keeping around. That and the kanthol handbook if you ever venture into sic or moly elements is a must have.
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:39 PM
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Yes, all of those things matter. My statement still holds true.
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Old 04-24-2019, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin Sankar View Post
I assume the longer you power your wire elements the shorter the lifespan. So does shutting it down like weekend warriors extend the life?
Where do you get your wires from?
The last time I got mine from Toronto. Looking for a us supplier.
How about China ��. Do they work well?

Franklin
**************
Dudley giberson makes them up to order at Joppa Glassworks in New Hampshire.
Duralite does a very good job in Riverton Connecticut.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:03 PM
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Yes I should have said you can assume that the design parameters , watt load etc are ok and itís operated within a safe working temp.
Thanks for the usage data Jordan. That is a most useful bit of information to guide and determine if the design was ok.
Sky thanks for the information. hints. I can improve.
Good going with your furnace it is doing real good. I lost mine after 5 months at 2000f so I need to fine tune the design and operations a bit.
The pot is stuck and 1/3 full.
Franklin
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:37 PM
Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig is offline
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Franklin you can heat up you furnace with a gas burner used for roofing to clean it out and get the glass out of the pot and loosen it from the bottom
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:20 PM
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Thanks Michael. I guess I will have to bring it up slowly. Itís a small pot.
Franklin
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Old 04-27-2019, 05:10 PM
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Will the glass eat the elements. The last row is on the ground. I canít eliminate and remove the last row unless I make the cavity bigger.
What is the white stuff in the picture?
The pot is resting on a piece of soft brick to help reduce the glass on the floor from sticking to the pot but the pot is still stuck. Hope the burner could loosen it and not kill the pot. Maybe time to redesign.
Sorry last pic rotated sideways.
Franklin
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:37 PM
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Photo 1. Melt it off. Don't touch it. Sod's law.

The pot may come loose with a good rap of a mallet ( not hammer) . It may not. Stay clear of the elements.
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Old 04-27-2019, 07:24 PM
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The element is open. So have to change them.
When you say melt it,... with the torch? will the flame/heat from the torch crack the pot?
Franklin
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Old 04-27-2019, 07:27 PM
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If the element is broken, rip it out.
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:01 PM
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That sounds like GOT. Adjusting the flame going to be interesting. I have to get the pot out of the way first.
Thanks
Franklin
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:26 AM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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The glass and heat will eat everything given time. Having the element on the bottom is just asking for trouble should you have a pot fail or if you gather sloppy. Same with using soft brick as your support, any glass touching it will eat it alive.

The white stuff looks like slag, either from charging or gathering.

Plan on losing the pot pulling it out, nature of the game. Won't always happen, but as Pete said Sod's law. I'd think lite physical shock is going to less likely to crack it than unregulated heat from the burner.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:50 AM
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Indeed, you won't get that pot loose with a torch, nor should you. It does seem to me that in the third picture, you show the pot sitting on the stilt. I think a carefully placed long chisel could do the trick right there. I do have to ask: Why if this is a wire furnace, are you able to see the bottom of the pot through such an opening? Is that a cleanout?
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:33 PM
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I tied my phone and lowered it between the space on the side.
Used a clicker to snap the picture.
Franklin
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:50 PM
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My glory hole burner is in bad shape but it is working.
What are the small holes on the rim for
Franklin
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Old 04-28-2019, 06:12 PM
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That;s not a Giberson burner I've ever seen but the point of the thing is to keep the flame on the tip and to provide significant BTU's to get things hot.
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:19 PM
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It's an eclipse burner.
If I increase the gas I get more heat. Tried to maximize gas consumption many times but finally gave up. It may be ok. It looks like two small holes clogged.
Franklin
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:34 PM
Terry Crider Terry Crider is online now
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That looks like a Maxon Stickite burner and if it is --- If I think they say it should be mounted 1and I/8 inches above the burner port.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:08 PM
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Thanks Terry. YOur saying 1 1/8 index away from the port. Oh sh....
I loosely sealed it in with flax. Going to fix that now and see if I can open up the other small holes. Any idea why the small holes?
They do something to make the flame stable. What? I donít know.
Franklin
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:27 PM
Terry Crider Terry Crider is online now
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If you are running any amount of pressure - the small holes keeps the flame from blowing out.
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:13 AM
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Yes this is a very stable burner head. It is amazing how well it works. Even in such a bad condition.
Franklin
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:41 AM
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Who say prayers donít work. I sharpened the end of a piece of flat steel and tapped all around the base of the pot and It just broke loose.
The last row on the floor most likely was the reason for the coil failure. Going to add a row on top and see what happens.
Franklin
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