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Old 12-14-2019, 06:07 PM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Time of reheats

After your putty up how long is your reheat. Say for a tumbler. I feel my glory hole is not hot enough.
Franklin
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Last edited by Franklin Sankar; 12-14-2019 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 12-14-2019, 07:19 PM
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too many relative factors Franklin. How hot is the glass, How hot is the gloryhole, how thick is the glass, blah blah blah.

Heat is the lubricant in which we make our work.
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Old 12-15-2019, 10:14 AM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is online now
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About 30 seconds
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Old 12-16-2019, 07:45 AM
Monte Becker Monte Becker is offline
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Not "how long" but "where"

For tumblers, one presumes that the bottom (near the punty) is all set, and only the top needs work. Step 1 is to clean up the neck to get ready for the puff out.

Towards this end, first I flash.

Then - The "reheat" is only to soften up the lip. Which means only the top cm or 3 is in the hole. And that takes as long as it takes. It's the right amount of time if the lip moves and not much else...

Then I flash again ... and proceed at speed...

Monte
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:35 AM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Yes too many parameters. I agonized before asking but the answers I got were very useful. Thanks .
Eben you understand my quest. I do 25 to 30 secs.
While it going good. How long are the reheats when you trying to blow it out. Before the punty.
Franklin

Last edited by Franklin Sankar; 12-16-2019 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:46 AM
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There are so many variables.... you have to let the glass "speak" to you.... look at the color, see if it is soft by pausing a bit and seeing how much it droops, sometimes it only takes a 10 count, sometimes longer.... make sure that you keep the punty attachment warm... work as hot as you are able to do.
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:11 PM
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this says nothing about thickness, glass type, neck line, phase of the moon...
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Old 12-16-2019, 03:36 PM
Tom Fuhrman Tom Fuhrman is offline
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Franklin, quit trying to approach as an "engineer" and approach as an artist that feels what is going on with the item you are working on. They will always be different depending on your equipment and all the variables Pete mentioned.
Trial and error will guide you where you need to be.
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:57 PM
Cecil McKenzie Cecil McKenzie is offline
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After I punty up and break off i reheat the punty and while rotating the piece at the bench I look to see if the back of the piece is centered. If one point cams high I hold the piece at the mouth and let the back sag. Reheat punty some and repeat until the piece is center. After the piece is centered heat front and pull to thin neck and get it hot enough to open or shape. it is not a matter of time but gettng the piece hot enough to do what you want to do.
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Old 12-16-2019, 05:41 PM
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well, you heat until it gets sloppy on you to where you can still control it. Then, thin it if it needs it. Trim it cuz it always needs it. Heat again and tool it open, flash and put it away. How long that takes depends on the variables.

Then, get an assistant to do that stuff and always blame the bad ones on the assistant. I read that somewhere. Larry Bell I think.

Then, sell it.
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Old 12-16-2019, 06:13 PM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Things working. Just need confirmation every so often.. blow and cap working good now. It should really be blow hard and cap.
My timing seem long but when compared with yours itís not that much off. Things were working ok then one day it just start to get crazy.
Franklin
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Old 12-16-2019, 07:48 PM
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I can relate so well to Pete lubricant. Jack line when glass hot and soft cuts the line real smooth . With Not so soft glass is like sandpapering the glass with the jacks .
Franklin
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:05 PM
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I never really understood what is centering. I donít bother to center when the punty is stuck off centered. It produces a smear.difficult to knock off.
Franklin
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Last edited by Franklin Sankar; 12-16-2019 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:24 AM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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Don't necessarily try and get full contact when you start to punty up. Make the initial attachment light, adjust as necessary, and then apply more pressure. You can also use things like chalk to mark the bottom of your piece to help find center.
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Old 12-18-2019, 01:37 AM
Brian Wong Shui Brian Wong Shui is offline
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Hey Franklin

I found Boyd Sugikiís videos and PDFs helpful. Maybe theyíll help you too.

https://www.cmog.org/article/glass-e...novator-sugiki
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Old 12-18-2019, 09:28 PM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Brian that is priceless. Thanks
Franklin
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Old 12-19-2019, 02:26 AM
Sean Jones Sean Jones is offline
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Boyds videos are really useful and thought provoking. In his discussion of building up heat Iím not sure he has his cooling curves the right way round though. Cooling rates decrease with time, he has the rates increasing.
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Old 12-19-2019, 03:44 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin Sankar View Post
After your putty up how long is your reheat. Say for a tumbler. I feel my glory hole is not hot enough.
Franklin
L
After i took my first intro class 14 years ago I went to work in the shop of a local San Jose glass blower who I consider the best technical blower I have ever seen. He taught me many things including the finer points of working solo. I believe you know him but he doesn't visit here anymore. He used to suggest that I should spend much less time thinking about timing and instead learn how to read the glass. It gives us plenty of clues as to how hot it is but we need to learn how to read it. His suggestion was to observe the glass at various stages of heat and the most important one was to get the glass hot enough to be completely uncontrollable and in that way you learn the limits of working it. Cant say enough about that approach and to this day I use most of what he taught and will always be grateful for it. Thanks Kevin.
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