High temp metal pipe for gloryhole.

[Jesse Bogenrief]

Looking for any help. I need a 3/4 pipe for my polite on my gloryhole. The stainless steel I have been getting can't handle the heat and crumbles. It need to be threaded on one side and at least 8" long 3/4 pipe that's 1.05 inches pipe. Thank you

[Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig]

This is a question with not enough information given. I dont have a clue what a polite is- but I do know its not a material issue , can you explain whats going on?

[Chris Lowry]

Pilot light?

[Charles Friedman]

Your pilot light is in the wrong spot.

[Jesse Bogenrief]

Sorry, yes pilot light. I have been trying to find Stainless steel T309 at least if not something like titanium.

[Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig]

You could just do away with it. A glory hole does not need a pilot light, its for like boilers and water heaters that cycle on and off to maintain a set temperature. Like I said its not a material issue- its a design flaw. Its not doing anything, and if it was its in the wrong place as Charles says.
It doesn't work as a safety valve either, glory holes are not prone to flame outs- if there was one the gas would reignite immediately because of the temperature in the hole, and the sensor would be way too slow to shut off the gas for the same reason.
If you wanted a safety shut down then it should be an optical flame sensor like you might have on as gas glass furnace.

[Eric Trulson]

Yeah, seconding what others have said, this is a design issue more than a material selection issue.

It's a good rule of thumb to just not have bare metal protruding into the hot interior of your gloryhole at all. Rapid oxidation is a hell of a drug, and even the high-temperature grades of stainless (309/310) won't like it for extended periods. Metals that would survive that environment happily are more like inconel and tungsten, and they're both expensive, hard to source, and troublesome to work. (although here's some inconel tube on mcmaster if you're a masochist)

Regular stainless pipe should survive much better as long as it's set an inch or two back into the wall (so assuming you have a brick interior on your GH, I'd have the tip of the metal pipe just poking an inch or less into the back side of the brick). Or as Michael says, unless you need the pilot light to adhere to code/insurance regs, you can ditch it entirely and just manually light the hole.

[Pete VanderLaan]

Originally Posted by Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig

You could just do away with it. A glory hole does not need a pilot light, its for like boilers and water heaters that cycle on and off to maintain a set temperature. Like I said its not a material issue- its a design flaw. Its not doing anything, and if it was its in the wrong place as Charles says.
It doesn't work as a safety valve either, glory holes are not prone to flame outs- if there was one the gas would reignite immediately because of the temperature in the hole, and the sensor would be way too slow to shut off the gas for the same reason.
If you wanted a safety shut down then it should be an optical flame sensor like you might have on as gas glass furnace.

*****
You may have a tough time getting that past many code inspectors. It falls into this notion of "Someone is always there". They actually go eat lunch among other things. I certainly agree that a gloryhole shutting off will spontaneously reignite. I use a variation of that premise on my furnace safety set up. The power will have to be out for at least 1/2 hour before the burner won't spontaneously reignite. Getting a gibberson style burner very far into the gloryhole is a great way to see how short the life on one of Gib's heads can be. It all depends on what you authority having jurisdiction says. I have no building code here at all.