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  #201  
Old 04-15-2011, 08:00 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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How's that dip stuff working out for you guys when changing pots and mollys? Is the stuff just to keep the insulation in place and If so what woild you folks think of using something like a fire blanket instead.
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  #202  
Old 04-15-2011, 09:06 AM
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Jeez, we just used a 5/8th spade bit with an extension on a drill press.
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  #203  
Old 04-15-2011, 02:32 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
Jeez, we just used a 5/8th spade bit with an extension on a drill press.
3.875 over! How do you live with yourself...
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  #204  
Old 04-15-2011, 03:20 PM
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Well, I've learned from bitter experience that the elements are really easy to break, your math not withstanding and that IFB expand when heated ...
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  #205  
Old 04-16-2011, 08:05 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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..so the math is good until ya flip the switch.

Are there any recommended torque specs for the support clamps and strap connections to the mollys. Iím worried they can be over tightened and crush the tubes.
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  #206  
Old 04-16-2011, 11:37 AM
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I will look in the super Kanthal Handbook but I don't recall any. Make them good and snug if that helps. Once the thing has been turned on and run for two days, go back and tighten everything again. Use the Noalox but never on the elements.
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  #207  
Old 04-16-2011, 02:53 PM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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The elements aren't hollow Lawrence. Don't worry about crushing them.

As far as having an element made up I guess it's a personal choice. It's one less thing I have to deal with when an element goes out. It's what I recommend to people when I do installations. Why waste fifteen minutes doing it when you can do it in five? It's also a bad time to have to hunt around for stuff, clear some space, etc. You know you've got one ready to go. The blowing session doesn't have to be totally lost.
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  #208  
Old 04-16-2011, 03:58 PM
Rollin Karg Rollin Karg is offline
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I in the corner of having one ready to go and all the tools necessary in one place. Just in case it breaks at an inopportune time. Let's make it as easy as possible.
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  #209  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:15 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Ready for dip stuff and straps.

Last edited by Lawrence Duckworth; 03-03-2014 at 06:41 AM.
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  #210  
Old 04-18-2011, 01:08 AM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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Forgive me for asking but how do you plan on getting those elements out? They look like they're completely fraxed over. I wouldn't cover any metal parts.
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  #211  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:12 AM
Doug Sheridan
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I agree with Jordon. Did you cut the frax out from around the top of the brick? The element would get too hot covered like that.
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  #212  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:19 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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There is one inch of insulation covering the ceramic/metal clamps. In the duckbill photos I have it appears to me to be covered in dip also... Its not a problem to cut the insulation out of the way if you guys think leaving them covered is a disadvantage.
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  #213  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:31 AM
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It is a problem. If you leave them covered they will fail very quickly - possibly in less than two weeks if you run hot at all. The clamps and the straps need to be completely exposed and air cooled if you want any life from them at all. What you are doing is great for my boat payment plan, but it offers no other benefit at all. Steve and Brent built air cooling manifold which help keep the straps cool. I would strongly suggest you do the same.

Don't ever try to cover up metal with insulation in a furnace. It usually takes just a few days for it to vaporize.
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  #214  
Old 04-18-2011, 11:40 AM
Tom Bloyd Tom Bloyd is offline
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Rollin Karg posted a air cooled manifold awhile back. Look in the archives it looked pretty nice.
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  #215  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:58 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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See what you guys think of this.

Tom, i'll look at tat tonight...thanks. (just now learning to type with my thumbs)

Last edited by Lawrence Duckworth; 03-03-2014 at 06:41 AM.
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  #216  
Old 04-18-2011, 04:01 PM
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That seems fine to me.
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  #217  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:36 PM
Tom Bloyd Tom Bloyd is offline
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Lawrence, it"s under the thread "moly cooling". If I wasn't such a ludite I would link you to it,but.......
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  #218  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:57 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bloyd View Post
Lawrence, it"s under the thread "moly cooling". If I wasn't such a ludite I would link you to it,but.......
Thanks Tom, I found it. Good discussion and information, great photo of the strap connections too.



Transformer showed up today........could get ugly
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  #219  
Old 04-19-2011, 05:03 AM
Hugh Jenkins Hugh Jenkins is offline
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I have to agree, electric gets ugly really quickly!!!
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  #220  
Old 04-19-2011, 10:03 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Actually....electrical work is simple. It either works or it doesnt.

Last edited by Lawrence Duckworth; 04-19-2011 at 10:05 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #221  
Old 04-19-2011, 10:37 AM
Brian Wong Shui Brian Wong Shui is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
There is one inch of insulation covering the ceramic/metal clamps. In the duckbill photos I have it appears to me to be covered in dip also... Its not a problem to cut the insulation out of the way if you guys think leaving them covered is a disadvantage.
Lawrence,

It isn't covered. The frax is right up to the edge of the brick. We use diplag to hold everything together. Cool the elements. Don't bore the bricks too tight. Things expand.

--Brian

--Brian
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  #222  
Old 04-19-2011, 11:58 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Thanks Brian
I reamed the brick with a half inch all thread rod to give some breathing room....might have been over kill
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  #223  
Old 04-19-2011, 08:14 PM
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You have to make sure that the clamp is tight though. I had an element slip through the clamp on my first furnace and it dropped down and touched the pot. That proved to be pretty exciting when I had been gathering all morning and saw the contact. That furnace did not have a door kill switch. Nothing happened. You just don't conduct below 50 volts.
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  #224  
Old 04-19-2011, 09:05 PM
Kenny Pieper Kenny Pieper is offline
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So do you really need a door kill switch?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
You have to make sure that the clamp is tight though. I had an element slip through the clamp on my first furnace and it dropped down and touched the pot. That proved to be pretty exciting when I had been gathering all morning and saw the contact. That furnace did not have a door kill switch. Nothing happened. You just don't conduct below 50 volts.
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  #225  
Old 04-19-2011, 09:21 PM
Julian Duerksen
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pot height

I am replacing the pot in my #300 molly and I am wondering what the best height is for the pot in relation with the rim to the sill. Previously the rim of the pot was about an inch bellow the sill. With the bricks I have I can go with two inches below the sill or with the lip of the pot almost level with the sill. Will it be harder on the pot the closer the rim is to the sill and the elements? How close can the elements be to the rim of the pot?
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