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Old 10-06-2017, 03:12 AM
Travis Frink Travis Frink is offline
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Rip van winkle Skutt kiln

I'm trying to help a friend revive a long unused skutt electric kiln.

The problem: The keys/buttons on the controller do not respond when kiln in turned on and keys are pressed. The display reads "PF" but does not change or respond when "ENTER" or other keys are pressed. Kiln IS plugged in and Fuse appears to be fine. The kiln was not used for a few years. The keys responded fine before the long dormancy. The problem occurred when we tried to use the kiln recently.

After consulting with the Skutt technician, we pulled the control panel off and cleaned applicable connections but only succeeded in getting a beeping sound when we turn the breaker on.

Does anybody have any suggestions to try before we start buying parts that double and triple in price when you send them across the pacific?

My friend purchased the new in the late 90s. It has seen very little use over the years and the last I heard of it being used was 6-8 years ago. The local climate is very humid for many months each year. The kiln is in the hot glass studio with the furnace on throughout the humid season but the furnace was off last summer during the humid season and everything that could rusted and some of the cherry blocks I made even started growing mushrooms. We did not find any mushrooms on or in the kiln....

Kiln details:
Model: I/KM 614-3
serial NO: 100917
2W 200VOLTS AC
1 phase 16.8 AMP
3367 WATTS
2250 F Cone 6

Thanks for any thought or suggestions on this.
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:22 AM
Rosanna Gusler Rosanna Gusler is offline
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My scutt of the same vintage had the same thing this year. A whole new controller was the answer. The tech guys at scutt are awsome.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:44 PM
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Dave Hilty Dave Hilty is offline
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Did the Scutt tech. Have you clean (rub with a pencil eraser) the specific contacts that are underneath the controller buttons? My Fuji has printed circuit contacts under each exterior button that oxidize and won't actuate after any extended humid conditions in the studio.
The trick is getting the thing open to expose and clean those contacts.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:11 AM
Travis Frink Travis Frink is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosanna Gusler View Post
My scutt of the same vintage had the same thing this year. A whole new controller was the answer. The tech guys at scutt are awsome.
That's what was suggested. It's just that parts get expensive when they get sent here. I always try to make things work if I can and only bite the bullet when I have to.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:16 AM
Travis Frink Travis Frink is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hilty View Post
Did the Scutt tech. Have you clean (rub with a pencil eraser) the specific contacts that are underneath the controller buttons? My Fuji has printed circuit contacts under each exterior button that oxidize and won't actuate after any extended humid conditions in the studio.
The trick is getting the thing open to expose and clean those contacts.
I've been wondering if that is in fact possible. Do you have any suggested tricks that helped you get yours open. I understand they are different devices but it would be helpful if I had some ideas to try.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:25 AM
Rosanna Gusler Rosanna Gusler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis Frink View Post
That's what was suggested. It's just that parts get expensive when they get sent here. I always try to make things work if I can and only bite the bullet when I have to.
understood. when you order your new controller see if it can be set up for zone control. much evenivity to be had with that. the new brain also comes with more bells and whistles like being able to get accurate elec costs per firing. good luck.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:36 PM
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Dave Hilty Dave Hilty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis Frink View Post
I've been wondering if that is in fact possible. Do you have any suggested tricks that helped you get yours open. I understand they are different devices but it would be helpful if I had some ideas to try.
The Fuji front has a very small set of openings on either side that receive tangs which lock the face containing LED and all the buttons to the body. I use a jewelers screwdriver to depress the tangs to pull the face off.
Having never seen the controller you have, I can't say what will extract the buttons off the printed circuit board behind them. If the choice is order a new controller or try to fix the one you have, I'd get pushy about finding a way to access the panel behind the push buttons.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:15 AM
Travis Frink Travis Frink is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hilty View Post
The Fuji front has a very small set of openings on either side that receive tangs which lock the face containing LED and all the buttons to the body. I use a jewelers screwdriver to depress the tangs to pull the face off.
Having never seen the controller you have, I can't say what will extract the buttons off the printed circuit board behind them. If the choice is order a new controller or try to fix the one you have, I'd get pushy about finding a way to access the panel behind the push buttons.
It seems like it's kind of one unit with the cover and button panel fused together. I'm going to have another look at it this week and we'll see if my friend will let a crazed foreigner near his equipment with a sharp metal object.

Thanks
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