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Old 06-28-2018, 02:49 PM
Chris Lowry Chris Lowry is offline
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Color Furnace Rental

So I've been wanting to make some pieces using a color furnace... does anyone know of a shop that you can rent that will allow color in the furnace? It would be simple light tints, blue, green, amber... Need at least 100 lb tank.

Just a thought and dream.

Aloha
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:26 PM
Kenny Pieper Kenny Pieper is offline
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Chris if you are doing only light tints why not use your own furnace? Most colors, and the ones you mentioned for sure, you would be able to do in an electric. If you dont want to do that fly out here to western N.C. and you can use my color furnace with a couple of 50 lb. pots.
Tell you what bring your family, stay in my house, use my shop and my wife and I will trade places with you!
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Old 06-28-2018, 03:43 PM
Chris Lowry Chris Lowry is offline
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Yeah this might be one of those times I was writing before thinking. Doing it in our furnace right before we switch pots would probably be the easiest.

Ha and thanks for the offer, I do think something like that could be fun but always harder to actually do. Do you blow glass in the summer or is it too hot over there. We usually turn off since it is slow over here but we might be on most of the summer this year.
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:03 PM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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Skutt glass melter, 80# pot, probably be around $3-3.5k delivered to Maui. You won't be sorry for long!
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:20 PM
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"Use my pot and my wife"? Really?
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:49 PM
Chris Lowry Chris Lowry is offline
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Jordan, you have used one? They hold a 80lb pot? Can they get hot enough to melt batch? Can you open the whole door easy enough to take bigger gathers?

Interesting idea
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Old 06-28-2018, 07:05 PM
Peter Bowles Peter Bowles is offline
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I used to do tints (and some denser melts) in our 120kg pot quite frequently, and intermittently between clear melts.
If your pot is in fairly good shape, and as long as you strip the pot right to the bottom after each tint its actually very quick to come back to melting clean clear again.
I used to sequence colours from light aqua, to cobalts, to teals, and then into greens or greys. Strip everything out, do a clear wash melt, which might have the faintest of remaining hues, and then next melt you would never know even with normal thickness blown work. The next clear melt would be as good as anything for thicker work.
I only used to fill the pot to about 100mm from the rim with the colour melts to ensure the subsequent clear melts would wash away any remaining colour.

Something to add to this, was each colour I melted I would cast a wedge shaped piece of glass tapering from 50mm to 10mm over 200mm (and about 100mm tall). Whenever I wanted to melt a glass with a specific density I could see where along the wedge the colour I wanted was - and calculate the relative % of oxide at that point. And if needed extrapolate that to different required thicknesses for whatever i was working on.

Once you have a few of these wedges it makes blending tones super easy by stacking them together at variable thicknesses to give different hues. And then simply calculating the oxide content at the desired point.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:16 AM
Kenny Pieper Kenny Pieper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Lowry View Post
. Do you blow glass in the summer or is it too hot over there. We usually turn off since it is slow over here but we might be on most of the summer this year.
Chris up here in the mountains it is not nearly as hot and humid as the rest of the state so most of us blow through the summer.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:11 AM
Marty Kremer Marty Kremer is offline
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Originally Posted by Kenny Pieper View Post
Chris up here in the mountains it is not nearly as hot and humid as the rest of the state so most of us blow through the summer.
The only reasonably comfortable blow time at Penland was from 2am to 5pm.
I suppose one acclimates.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:16 AM
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The only reasonably comfortable blow time at Penland was from 2am to 5pm.
I suppose one acclimates.
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:15 AM
Marty Kremer Marty Kremer is offline
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It was an intensive class.

2am to 5am
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:06 AM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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The port isn't terribly large. You could definitely modify your gather to be long and skinny to get a decent size. I would buy new so you know what you are getting. The boro guys run them at 2300 continuously. I haven't been able to get more than 6 weeks out of a set of elements at those temperatures but you can melt certainly do batch.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:18 AM
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It was an intensive class.

2am to 5am
Apparently. It seemed like a long blow slot.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:50 AM
Kenny Pieper Kenny Pieper is offline
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Quote:
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The only reasonably comfortable blow time at Penland was from 2am to 5pm.
I suppose one acclimates.
Yea thats a hot studio now.
A lot of us have good ventalation
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:51 AM
Dan Vanantwerp Dan Vanantwerp is offline
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Hi Peter, That's a nice system for predicting color density based on thickness. I didn't quite get how the wedge relates to % oxide. Could you explain that a bit more?
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:13 AM
Rich Arentzen Rich Arentzen is offline
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Melting white

I can no longer take picking up bars of white littered with bubbles. Since we are surrounded by restaurants etc, I am also not too keen on melting white batch. I have been thinking of either finding a white cullet source or melting commercial frit in small batches. The Skutt kiln may be appropriate for that use. Anyone doing this? Any other ideas, including melting our own dense white in a very safe manner?
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:26 AM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Arentzen View Post
I can no longer take picking up bars of white littered with bubbles. Since we are surrounded by restaurants etc, I am also not too keen on melting white batch. I have been thinking of either finding a white cullet source or melting commercial frit in small batches. The Skutt kiln may be appropriate for that use. Anyone doing this? Any other ideas, including melting our own dense white in a very safe manner?
I used to work for someone who had a color furnace that was 5 12 square high alumina bricks fitted together to make a mini Day tank. His burner was similar to my pipe warmer burner with a small squirrel cage blower to supply air. He would order 100 kilos of enamel white at a time and every morning break about 6 bars into 5 inch lengths and just toss them in....
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:01 AM
Rich Arentzen Rich Arentzen is offline
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With good results?
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:42 AM
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keep in mind that it outgasses lead arsenate, quite toxic. Also keep in mind that it needs to be really pretty cold.
Ed Skeels used to have just a simple porcelain coffee cup in his gloryhole and he put the color bar in the color box and about every half hour, he took out a chunk and carefully dropped it in the coffee cup. He said it worked very well but you had the learn to balance out supply and demand.

I would of course ask you which company white is giving you so much crap? If the rod has bubbles, you will simply move the bubbles from one place to another. You won't like what frit does at all.
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Old 07-21-2018, 12:23 PM
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It's probably a moot point at this time since System 96 (or whatever it's called now) is scarce, but the opalines are really touchy. Remelting that cullet causes serious shifts in compatibility. It's also not very dense.

Some questions. What are your applications for this? How dense does it need to be? Most importantly, how are you prepping your bar for pickup?

There are some bars that are easy to introduce bubbles during the heat up. Are there bubbles in the bar/rod when you get it from the supplier?
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Old 07-21-2018, 12:46 PM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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With good results?
Very good results. Just know that more often than not bubbles in color(especially overlays) is a result of the gaffer and not the color maker. Overlaying over a cold post guarantees bubbles.
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Old 07-21-2018, 01:50 PM
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Which white are you getting bubbles in?
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:13 PM
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Which white are you getting bubbles in?
*******
drum roll as tension builds...
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:02 PM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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Well where I'm going with that is if it's gaffer you may need to up your pickup temperature quite a bit. Every pick up oven is different but as an example, most colors we can pick up between 1020 and 1030. We'll run gaffer opaques up as much as 50 degrees higher.
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:45 PM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Kube View Post
Well where I'm going with that is if it's gaffer you may need to up your pickup temperature quite a bit. Every pick up oven is different but as an example, most colors we can pick up between 1020 and 1030. We'll run gaffer opaques up as much as 50 degrees higher.
I do the same.
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