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Old 12-02-2017, 02:42 PM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Fenton molds

Did anyone buy any? I did.... wow! I love using them, and the speed at which I can make a vase is tremendous.

Question - one is a turning mold that needs to be coated. What is the best coating if I do not intend on using them wet? Renite?
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:10 AM
Brian Wong Shui Brian Wong Shui is offline
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Renite MPR. + Granular Cork (Maryland cork) . Renite has been purchased by Condat. New marketing guy who can get you answers is

John Simpson
Diversification Market Manager
CONDAT Corporation
jsimpson@condatcorp.com
P: 800-883-7876
C: 260-797-8747
F: 734-944-4995
www.condatcorp.com
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:17 AM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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The very first thread in "Antiques and Classics offers a very thorough explanation of the process or corking a mold.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:29 AM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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I know how to cork a mold but if you had read my question, I had asked “what is the best coating if I plan on keeping these dry? I thought cork is intended to be kept wet to produce steam. No?
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:48 AM
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I think it's to keep it from burning up. I did read it and Michael talks about the use of a mold indicating that it should be soaked for 12 hours before use or you will have some difficulty with it. He does not indicate constant wetting of the mold as near as I can understand him. Unfortunately, the link to the original is corrupted.
*****************
Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig

Ive tried linseed oil and never got it to work well for me- now I know why.
Here is an alternative which is less labor intensive- it does involve using traditional or old style boat varnish, lacquer or whatever you like to call it and thats a bit of an issue because Ive found some that works but Ive also tried other brands that call itself the same thing and it does not work. (makes small scratches on the glass) Its a rather thick slightly amber colored varnish that hardens to a hard shiny surface.
Its all the same process for cast iron or graphite, large or small, same temperature and timing.
Sounds like my cork is a finer mesh than Ed s- wild guess is about a 200 grit if I compare it to sand- it is very dusty and light. I keep it in a plastic trash barrel with a tight lid- don't want any contaminants in there- sand dust etc.
If its a new mold I clean it with acetone. Its good if the mold is warm ...100 F- paint the inside of the mold as even as possible liberally with the varnish- work fast and don't let it sit- the varnish will run. I immerse the whole mold in the cork, not pushing or packing it against the varnished surface, just covering it and let it sit for 20 minutes. Take it and tap the mold to get the excess off but don't touch the cork surface even if there are clumps of cork. Run it for 6 hours in the annealer at 410 F (210 C)
If you screw up programming the controller or choose the wrong program and it goes to 950 F you've ruined a graphite mold- it looks good but becomes porous and gets water logged when you dip it and crackles the glass when you blow in it- I don't know of any way to save it, and you have to get a new mold…
Take the mold and brush off any loose cork with your fingers, then blow a thicker than normal gather into it to burn the cork (no water)- stay in there until it quits smoking. Clear the holes from the inside of the mold with a nail or wire then repeat the whole process one more time.
Now check the holes - there is a tendency for cork to build a little ring around the holes so you can take a sand paper and take down any ridges- I use used belt sander paper- no grit comes off. The mold is ready to go- no breaking in- and will also do about a 1000 stemware cups before redoing it- but then its enough with one coat of cork.
I don't leave my molds in water overnight, but if its not been used for a couple of months it might be an idea to soak it 12 hours before use."

-------------------------------------------



There is such a thing as paste free- or freely translated from swedish- self lubricating graphite, but its only been around a short time, 30 years or so
That could be the type Ed was using.
Ive had molds made in it a couple of times but have always finally corked them anyway to get a better surface result. Corked molds are more forgiving.
I have a feeling they work better in a serious production setting where you can really control mold/glass temp and timing. I have a barn full (well, hundreds) of old graphite molds from the 1960s and they are all pasted and vented with holes. They used carbon powder and linseed oil instead of cork back then. Sometimes the coating is a couple of mm thick.
By the look on the prices on eBay of those molds I have a substantial fortune laying around- They will become the worlds most expensive land fill material one of these days
Jacqueline is right about the non turn forms not being pasted and I googled pilgram glass and it looks like they have made a lot of “crackled” glass- dipped in water- and that would tear the hell out of a wood or corked g. mold.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:52 AM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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ALSO... did anyone else buy any? I wish o bought more.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:57 AM
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you probably still can buy them from George Fenton. There are also molds from Michael Christman in Arkansas unless he has finally melted them all down.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:33 AM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Thank you Pete.
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:09 AM
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I've written George. We'll see what he says.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:33 AM
David Russell David Russell is offline
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I also am interested in his response on case a line begins to form. Thank you
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:15 PM
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George just wrote me back with the following:
******
Peter,
We have about 6000 moulds still available. We sold about 2500 and are keeping about 1000 for future use by the Fenton Gift Shop. We are starting demolition on Monday and a portion of the moulds will be inaccessible after that. I have attached an updated spreadsheet that shows the current status. Where an item shows "requested by" it is generally sold and I just haven't changed the nomenclature yet. We have a few more weeks to deal with moulds in the other areas. The moulds that will be inaccessible after Monday are shown in the worksheet titled "Available items in basement".
If anyone has specific questions they should feel free to call me at 304 481 7641.
We also reduced prices and that is shown on the second worksheet.
Thanks,
George
********
If you do this Eben, I would appreciate you getting me one or two for in shop projects. I view them as pretty expensive but perhaps the "reduced prices " are more enticing, I don't know. I can forward you the email with the worksheet attachments but I don't want to get too deep in this.
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:52 PM
Jordan Kube Jordan Kube is offline
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Forget about the linseed oil. Get your mold to 400 degrees(I'll have to check on that number), brush on the renite, make sure there is an even layer with no pooling. Throw a bunch of cork into the mold and rotate it around to get even coverage and dump out the excess. You may need to repeat this step, you may not. Bake it in until the cork has turned a nice caramel brown. Remove from kiln and let cool.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:46 PM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
George just wrote me back with the following:
******
Peter,
We have about 6000 moulds still available. We sold about 2500 and are keeping about 1000 for future use by the Fenton Gift Shop. We are starting demolition on Monday and a portion of the moulds will be inaccessible after that. I have attached an updated spreadsheet that shows the current status. Where an item shows "requested by" it is generally sold and I just haven't changed the nomenclature yet. We have a few more weeks to deal with moulds in the other areas. The moulds that will be inaccessible after Monday are shown in the worksheet titled "Available items in basement".
If anyone has specific questions they should feel free to call me at 304 481 7641.
We also reduced prices and that is shown on the second worksheet.
Thanks,
George
********
If you do this Eben, I would appreciate you getting me one or two for in shop projects. I view them as pretty expensive but perhaps the "reduced prices " are more enticing, I don't know. I can forward you the email with the worksheet attachments but I don't want to get too deep in this.
Pete, thanks for contacting him. Could you forward the email to me ? My email is “ ebenhorton @ Gmail.com “ thanks


Thanks for the tip Jordan
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:09 PM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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I sent you an email.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:56 PM
Art Freas Art Freas is offline
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Is there a way to post the spreadsheet? Otherwise can you forward it to Art at Artbyfire .com
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:15 AM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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The timing on the molds may well be becoming impossible. They are burying quite a number now and due to an asbestos abatement, those will no longer be accessible. That started today so there's nothing to be done there.

I'm currently going thru to see about around 25 molds, perhaps more and it's a really slow slog. I have no interest in blowing the molds but I am interested in taking waxes and plasters and rendering the results in an Ann Robinson kind of way.
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