Source for S-Type Thermocouple

[Kevin McLeod]

Where do you all source reliable quality S-Type thermocouple assemblies? I've been having a hard time finding them from someplace that's not a gamble on quality (ebay, amazon, etc.).

[Victor Chiarizia]

i get thermo and ph equipment from omega engineering in ct. or kulas systems in somers ct. vic

[Pete VanderLaan]

I used Grant Edgell in Portland OR. I have no idea if they still exist.

[Kevin McLeod]

Originally Posted by Victor Chiarizia

i get thermo and ph equipment from omega engineering in ct. or kulas systems in somers ct. vic

Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan

I used Grant Edgell in Portland OR. I have no idea if they still exist.

Omega has them, but at prices over 10 times what i was expecting... $3700 for a thermocouple is a bit extreme, I thought they were normally around $200-300... maybe there is something I'm missing, I'll call them and see.

The only info I found for Grant Edgell was a google maps listing for a closed business called "Grant Edgell Co." that had a phone number (503-254-6524) and no other information. I just tried calling the phone number and I was connected to a very nice old man named Bob who told me he is now retired, and sold all his equipment to a company called Adtec in Boring, OR (Which I could not find the company nor the town, so I must have misheard). He was incredibly knowledgeable and eager to help though, he walked me through everything I might possibly need to know to get exactly what I need from another company.

I haven't been able to find any information about Kulas Systems yet, other than a potential phone number (860-749-6645) on another incomplete google maps listing, I'll try calling them when I get a moment.

[Pete VanderLaan]

Platinum thermocouples are through the roof at this point, so sadly, yes you're out of touch. They also should last forever. I'm still using ones I bought in 1975. Gauge really matters

Don't get finer than a 22 gauge wire. Simply put, you'll break it. Have it made up in a mullite tube. Handle with care. It's unfortunate that people like Bob have retired. we're all old guys now. Tom is gone at High Temp in Missouri. I really miss hime. John Croucher is more than gone. I thought we had rocking chair time coming.

[Rich Samuel]

Originally Posted by Kevin McLeod

...a company called Adtec in Boring, OR (Which I could not find the company nor the town...

https://www.manta.com/c/mm5l0jx/adtek

[Kevin McLeod]

Originally Posted by Rich Samuel

https://www.manta.com/c/mm5l0jx/adtek

Thank you!

[Brian Wong Shui]

Precision Measurements
3715 Northcrest Road, Suite #2 Atlanta GA 30340 USA
770-457-7099

http://www.precision-measurements.com/

[Art Freas]

https://www.eustispyrocom.com/

[Kevin McLeod]

Just to close the loop on this for anyone who might go looking after me, the cheapest (and most responsive) source I found was:

Krumor, Inc.
7655 Hub Parkway
Valley View, OH 44125
T: 216.328.9802
W: www.krumor.com

They quoted me $394 for a 12" double mullite tube protected assembly

Just to be complete, I also was recommended the following alternate sources:

• Kleenair products in Portland
• National Basic Sensor
• Eustis pyrocom

[Pete VanderLaan]

Do not ignore the gauge of the wire. A 22 gauge will work for you but just barely. If you get seduced into anything finer you will break it just by staring at it. A 30 gauge is hard to see but indeed cost way less. Don't do it.

I still have thermocouples in a type R that were 18 gauge and they continue to qork great 35 years later.

[Kevin McLeod]

That quote was for a direct replacement of what existed on the furnace already (original was purchased from them), but I will ask for confirmation and a revised quote if it is for something thinner than 22ga.

[Kevin McLeod]

The quote was for 24 ga. and alumina tube. I am asking now for a re-quote with 20ga wire and mullite tube.

[Pete VanderLaan]

watch the sticker shock. 24 gauge is simply alarming to look at.

[Kevin McLeod]

Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan

watch the sticker shock. 24 gauge is simply alarming to look at.

24g is fairly common wire size in some other stuff I work on regularly, it's not so bad.

looks like the cross section of 20ga is about 2.5x the cross section of 24ga, so I'm expecting a price difference of a similar factor

[Kevin McLeod]

$891 for single probe/20ga/mullite tube from Krumor

[David Hopman]

Krumor rebuilt some thermocouples for me and did a good job.

[Eben Horton]

I’m going to just throw this out there and you guys can throw a shoe at me if you want if you disagree with me. You can imbed a K thermocouple an inch or 2 away from the inside of the furnace inside the liner. When you feel that your glass is a good working temp, you take note of what temp the thing is at… so if the furnace is really 2100 inside, the imbedded thermocouple may read something like 1700. That’s now YOUR working temp. This isn’t rocket science especially if you melt cullet. I have never done this before but I have heard of people doing it with success.

[Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig]

Kevin, whats wrong with the one you have? The original?

[Pete VanderLaan]

Originally Posted by Eben Horton

I’m going to just throw this out there and you guys can throw a shoe at me if you want if you disagree with me. You can imbed a K thermocouple an inch or 2 away from the inside of the furnace inside the liner. When you feel that your glass is a good working temp, you take note of what temp the thing is at… so if the furnace is really 2100 inside, the imbedded thermocouple may read something like 1700. That’s now YOUR working temp. This isn’t rocket science especially if you melt cullet. I have never done this before but I have heard of people doing it with success.

****
It works just fine if you don't mind having a relative set of values.

[Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig]

Ha ha who doesent?

[Pete VanderLaan]

It can become an issue with the ultra fine "S and R type wires that they can break. D rating them in the furnace wall makes them last longer. An 18 gauge will last your lifetime. I don't think I'd be inclined to do that with a K if I really needed to know what was up. If I'm telling someone else how to melt something, I like to know the real numbers. If it's in house it makes no real difference until you start asking questions. A 30 gauge wire is hard to see.

[Eben Horton]

Originally Posted by Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig

Ha ha who doesent?

Haha!!!!!!!!

[Kevin McLeod]

Originally Posted by Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig

Kevin, whats wrong with the one you have? The original?

The folks I'm buying the shop from broke the housing and tube when they were packing the equipment into storage. I fully intend to send the existing one in for rebuild/repair, but wanted to know prices for a new one before agreeing to the purchase. I'll probably buy a new one and then have the old one rebuilt as a spare or to use in future equipment I build.

[Pete VanderLaan]

I would forego the new one. Just get the repair done and then do what Eben suggests. Program the controller for a type K and put it in the kiln wall back about1.5 inches from hot face.
The reality for cullet users is that they never approach the limits of a type K in the first place. The problem that really exists is that batch fumes will eventually dissolve the outer sheath on an S or an R. I think those type K units cost under 20 dollars.

Even if the type K wears out, think of how many you could buy before hitting 800 dollars.