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  #26  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:29 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin Sankar View Post
Thanks for the reply Larry. No luck. The clear eventually turn dirty.
Sky has given me some hope that all is not over as yet.
Franklin
Would love to get you working with boro. As I remember your access to bulk oxygen is limited so that was problematic. My shop is in santa cruz CA. If you make it here please feel free to contact me and we can work some here.
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  #27  
Old 04-12-2018, 05:35 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
Larry, Iím getting materials from Mountain Glass and noticed they sell Gilson opals, a bit pricey though 3-4 bucks for a 3mm sphere..

I notice you said that they encase ez. Can you explain how to do it or is it something that needs to be seen? ... I use a 24mm clear rod to start my pin implosions.
Thats actually cheap for high quality Gilson. I pay upwards of $70 for the largest polished shapes. Start by closing off one end of some boro tubing. The size of the tubing should be at least 30-40% larger then the opal itself. Drop in the opal sphere and start heating from the closed end. As the end goes molten it will start to envelope the opal. Continue to heat from the bottom until you have 90+% of the sphere encased and there is just a thin tube of air still connected. Tip the tubing up and give a quick suck to pull out the remaining air from the tubing. You now should have a fully encased opal sphere that can be annealed and then incorporated into a project.
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  #28  
Old 04-12-2018, 07:42 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Thanks Larry, Thatís pretty cool.
I think I better focus on some basics for now ... You make some very nice Glass
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  #29  
Old 04-13-2018, 03:09 AM
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Franklin Sankar Franklin Sankar is offline
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Thanks Larry.
Franklin
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  #30  
Old 04-13-2018, 05:04 AM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Larry, one more question
The encasement method for the opal, is that more or less continued using larger and larger tubing while also adding the fuming until you reach the finished diameter.?
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  #31  
Old 04-13-2018, 06:01 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
Larry, one more question
The encasement method for the opal, is that more or less continued using larger and larger tubing while also adding the fuming until you reach the finished diameter.?
Not completely sure what you mean. The opal after encasing then can be incorporated into a sphere. For instance If I were doing floral implosions, I would add the opal to the core before flattening the core into a disk and adding your color for the petals. Think of it as a raw component to be added where you like. My work is not generally done on tubing but solid rod. 26mm in the case of the biggest spheres.

Here is an example of the fumed gold and silver florals I used to do. They were done as I suggested. The opals were first added to the back of the solid core, the core was flattened into a disk, the fume for the petals was added and then the whole thing was imploded.
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Last edited by Larry Cazes; 04-13-2018 at 07:08 PM.
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  #32  
Old 04-13-2018, 08:03 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Thanks again Larry. I think I gotit. Not the fuming part but the opal being encased and inserted into the glass. Iíll give it a try.
Iím trying to make my wife a nice wine bottle stopper, ....you wonít believe what all Iíve gone through to make her a glass pumpkin!
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  #33  
Old 04-14-2018, 08:02 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Larry, I like the way your flower pedals spread out and also have a layered 3d look, how can I get my pedals to spread out like that? I've done 3 of them and they go straight up with no curve or spreading. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with heat and the tamping. But on the other hand I've been wrong at every step so... one more time with questions. How do you turn those peddles?

here are a couple of the pin implosion style wine stoppers. the glass work is probably interesting enough for most tent sales, but a flower would be really nice I think.
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  #34  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:45 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
Larry, I like the way your flower pedals spread out and also have a layered 3d look, how can I get my pedals to spread out like that? I've done 3 of them and they go straight up with no curve or spreading. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with heat and the tamping. But on the other hand I've been wrong at every step so... one more time with questions. How do you turn those peddles?

here are a couple of the pin implosion style wine stoppers. the glass work is probably interesting enough for most tent sales, but a flower would be really nice I think.
Less tamping and pay attention to where on the disk you are heating. It all has an effect on the shape of the finished petals. The whispy three dimensional effect is mostly due to the fume. Theres no color in these. just silver and gold.
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  #35  
Old 04-15-2018, 04:52 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Thatís surprising to here there isnít color added. Iím gonna take a stab at this and guess youíre fuming a stringer.

Thanks again for the help/tips!
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  #36  
Old 04-15-2018, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
Thatís surprising to here there isnít color added. Iím gonna take a stab at this and guess youíre fuming a stringer.

Thanks again for the help/tips!
The fume is applied then clear to encase or trap the fume. The surounding fume then gets burned off leaving the encased fume. Here is a pendant I made for my wife many years ago. I have better examples in the shop but I'm in for the night. This is a little silver and I mean barely noticeable then gold. The little bit of silver seemed to make the gold stick better and gives some nice greens. Silver by itself can be white amber and blue. Gold can be pink flashed gold or in this case green applied over silver. The pendant was fumed then dots of clear. The un encased fume was burned off imploded and backed with black.
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  #37  
Old 04-15-2018, 09:52 PM
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Just realized why that looks photoshoped. I shot that pic with my phone standing in front of the fish tank. The atinic lights make it look more green then it really is. It really does pop but not that much lol. Backing fume work with black really shows it off.
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  #38  
Old 04-15-2018, 10:02 PM
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Better lighting.
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  #39  
Old 04-16-2018, 05:40 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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You guys get some impressive effects with the fuming!
Thanks Sky for the explanation, Iíve watched a couple YouTube videos too..looks like a respirator or damn good ventilation is a must..in one of the videos the guy just held his breath
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  #40  
Old 04-17-2018, 06:31 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
You guys get some impressive effects with the fuming!
Thanks Sky for the explanation, Iíve watched a couple YouTube videos too..looks like a respirator or damn good ventilation is a must..in one of the videos the guy just held his breath
No evidence of toxicity to silver and gold. I wouldn't work without a hood though as the combustion products and the glass itself are another matter altogether. Stay away from the youtube videos as sources of info.
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  #41  
Old 04-20-2018, 11:45 AM
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Ted Trower Ted Trower is offline
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Maybe not toxicity but silver will turn you blue with enough exposure.
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  #42  
Old 04-20-2018, 01:19 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
You guys get some impressive effects with the fuming!
Would love to see the results of your labors on the wine stopper.
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  #43  
Old 04-20-2018, 06:18 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Originally Posted by Larry Cazes View Post
Would love to see the results of your labors on the wine stopper.
I haven't tried the fuming yet.
I'm using food safe s/s hardware and a wax finish on the wood. this one is Brazilian Cherry.
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  #44  
Old 04-20-2018, 06:51 PM
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Are you turning the wood yourself, Larry?
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  #45  
Old 04-20-2018, 06:57 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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Yes. Iím using a mini lathe. Itís fun
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  #46  
Old 04-20-2018, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence Duckworth View Post
Yes. Iím using a mini lathe. Itís fun
Neato!

I have a friend in NC that owns a wine shop, and I'm looking into making stoppers for him to sell in his shop. Want to use glass, wood, and metal.

Is yours a DIY setup? I'm looking at maybe investing in a cheapo rig from HF.
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  #47  
Old 04-20-2018, 09:32 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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I bought a Jet mini lathe that has the digital rpm readout, you may not need that feature if youíre familiar with Wood turning though...also, I would pay attention to the wine stopper hardware used, donít use chrome

..Donít be shy about showing what you come up with.
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  #48  
Old 04-21-2018, 07:31 PM
Larry Cazes Larry Cazes is offline
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Very cool Larry! Would love to see some opals in those. Do you have a source you dont mind sharing for the Stainless hardware?
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  #49  
Old 04-21-2018, 07:56 PM
Lawrence Duckworth Lawrence Duckworth is offline
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...ezpots.com they might be pricey. I think I paid 4.50 ea.

No opals yet. Iíve been wasting fuel and material trying stuff. I stuck a bunch of different colored stringers in a tube and pulled, encased a couple small pellets and jammed them in the core like you described (opal deal) just to see how that might go....pretty cool. Anyway, Iíll get there, the fuming too.
Btw, I see some pretty elaborate figurines encased. Is there a book you would recommend.
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  #50  
Old 04-23-2018, 08:23 AM
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While not quite like this, I've been making full pots (80lbs) of silver opals recently to the point where the pieces are not cased at all but have overlays of other silver based glasses on the surface. They really mature in the gloryhole in mild reduction. What is fascinating about them is that from the same pot, once sandblasted and finished, the surface color varies anywhere from a green to a vibrant fluorescing blue. In other sections, particularly the inside lip, it may be an opal yellow with jupiter like rings in it.

I'm accustomed to seeing the blueish/white fume you refer to when treating silver ( or gold) on a reducing glass body. I did not pay sufficient attention to the source material. Is this something you are buying to apply?
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