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Old 07-17-2019, 03:51 PM
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Gluing Glass to Acrylic

I've got to glue many acrylic spheres to glass and wanted to see if anyone has experience with glass/acrylic adhesives.

My tests with Loctite E30 are promising but it takes a long time to set up, which means I'll have to jig everything. Upon the advice of Loctite, I'm going to try their 3525, which is UV so it will cure quickly and is specified for glass to acrylic. (I'm trying to avoid jigs because of the time and cleanup involved).

Anyone have experience with this challenge? thx!
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:07 PM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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Anytime I'm going for glass to plastics I stick with silicone, but that's for joints where you'll never see the connection.
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:18 PM
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take solarization seriously
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:56 AM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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Like I said, non visible connections, opaque awards to bases kind of thing.
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Old 07-18-2019, 02:02 PM
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Best viewed in subdued light.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:24 PM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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I take no responsibility for the quality of the bases a client gives me.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:31 AM
George Vidas George Vidas is offline
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Silicone does not stick to acrylic.

Depending on size and weight and everything, I'd be pretty wary of an adhesive. Acrylic moves a LOT. +/- 1/8" over 8' is a reasonable ballpark for outdoor seasonal fluctuation. In the sign world I like either acrylic to acrylic, or mechanical fasteners with flexibility.
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:33 AM
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I would think that a chunk of Schott, polished all around would be a far better, longer lasting base. Put silicon dots on the bottom. Indeed more work, more expense. Way less heartache.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:07 PM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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Interesting. I can't say for sure if the bases were acrylic, but a black plastic of some sort. Anytime I fear movement my go to is silicone because of the flexibility.

Not at the same place anymore, so if it fails not so much my problem.
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Old 07-23-2019, 01:57 AM
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Just for the record (and others facing this challenge)...I tested three different adhesives to see which performed best on my acrylic-to-glass bond: Hxtal, Loctite 3525 UV and Loctite E30CL epoxy.

I cleaned the glass with acetone and ground a small section to give the adhesive tooth. I also ground a section away of the surface of the acrylic to ensure it was clean and also had tooth. After curing the UV for about 20 minutes and leaving them all for 4 days, I found the UV failed easily, the Hxtal had decent grip but failed with a bit of effort and the E30CL was rock solid--I couldn't pull it off. So for this particular application, E30CL got it done best.
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:13 AM
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You don't want to have tooth with UV.
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Vriethoff View Post
You don't want to have tooth with UV.
****
That is too vague. Why would that be?
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:47 AM
Shawn Everette Shawn Everette is offline
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I was always told, and experienced, that it doesn't set well when used as a filler. You want the contact points to be as matched as possible. Honestly these days I only use it as a tack while gluing hxtal.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
****
That is too vague. Why would that be?
It cures in the presence of UV light, but the environment must be "anaerobic."

The joint is supposed to be be as smooth and tight-fitting as possible. I believe this is why it works so well on clean breaks. If the joint is clean, and fits together perfectly, you'll get the best bond.

These are just my best recollections. I don't have instructions in front of me right now.

I think Henry mentions that in gn.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:05 PM
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These days when I glue, I really only use hxtal. I did at one time use UV's and the biggest problem I had with them was penetration of the joint with the UV. We used, and still own a pretty big UV light for those rare moments, but, we really polished the surfaces and never had "tooth " beyond xylene. When joints failed, they showed infarcts that looked like fronds of a fern. The irritating thing was that the infarct always showed up at the last second, well after the joint had set. Taking it apart almost inevitably had the whole joint peel away and that's how I've seen joints fail on some wall pieces I din't make.

Hxtal takes time to really cure and if the temperature isn't right, it can be quite deceptive as to the joint strength. four days seems reasonable but much depends on temperatures and mix ratio. Having the joint squeeze out the stuff is an issue as well. Michael Cohn used to take slide covers and cut tiny pieces of them and used them as a shim in the joint. The covers were impossible to see and it really works.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:18 PM
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I would suggest trying "Goop". I have used it between glass and other things and it has held up pretty well.

There are many labelled types of Goop: marine Goop, kitchen Goop, plumbing Goop, Camping Goop, shoe Goop etc. I have talked with the company that sells it and am here to say that there really are 3 kinds of Goop: Shoe Goop hardens somewhat flexible. The rest either have a UV protector or do not have it. With the UV protector, the tubes cost a dollar more.
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:35 AM
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Hot glue and popsicle sticks make quick and easy jigs for gluing. Pops right off pretty easily after the epoxy sets. Use the lower temp setting if you have it.
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:47 PM
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I have had good luck with E6000
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