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Old 07-07-2019, 04:19 PM
Philip Yamron Philip Yamron is offline
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Insulating around an annealer

Looking for some advice and suggestions. I have some wooden display shelving acting as a wall / gallery space behind my annealers. I feel like I should attach something to the back of the wooden shelving unit to protect it from the annealers radiant heat. The annealer don't really put out much external heat but figured prevention from problems is best. Even if it's really about appearances for building official's. The large annealer is about 6-8" away from the shelving. I was thinking drywall (although it's heavy and I drive a small SUV) or maybe that reflective foam board. Anyone have any input? Thanks again for any help
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Old 07-07-2019, 04:55 PM
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Hardiebacker, ugly but works.
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Old 07-07-2019, 05:30 PM
Eben Horton Eben Horton is offline
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Id use galvanized sheet metal
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Old 07-07-2019, 06:11 PM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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multiple dead air spaces.
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Old 07-07-2019, 06:11 PM
Philip Yamron Philip Yamron is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete VanderLaan View Post
multiple dead air spaces.
Could you elaborate please
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Old 07-07-2019, 07:52 PM
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Pete VanderLaan Pete VanderLaan is offline
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Dead air is the best insulator. When I built my hood I laid in multiple layers of sheet rock with spacing in between each layer.

In your case, I would put some spacers on the portion of the shelving facing the lehr about an inch thick and would attach a piece of aluminized foam. Then another set of spacers, then a piece of sheet rock, then a set of spacers and a last piece of rock.The aluminized stuff really insulates but the resin in the foam is actually flammable so it goes up furthest away from the heat. To see how well this might work, set up a similar arrangement somewhere nearer the front of the lehr where you can mess with it and change the arrangement if you're unhappy with it. Stick a thermocouple where you can get a reading back in the place the shelves would be when doing the real thing.

I used to think that 160F was acceptable as an ambient temp for radiant heat but years of studing studio fires as well as pyrolytic fires when I ran the fire dept taught me that was was too high. These days 130-135 makes me comfortable.

Materials don't burn, the gas vapor coming off of them does. Gradually as materials decompose over the years, they're far more prone to gassing. I have seen fires go through concrete slabs 10 inches thick and fireplace outgasses were constant. Here in New England, Chimney fires are the main problem which we rarely had out west. They all involve cracked flue tile, just again and again. Stainless flexible pipe solves the bulk of that problem.

So shoot for those temps. The trouble with simply using rock, or whatever is that the heat eventually passes through it to the other side and comes to stasis. While asbestos doesn't in fact burn, it's really useless. Let it breathe.

Do I need to say more or is it clear?
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:12 PM
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Sky Campbell Sky Campbell is online now
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Cheap metal 2x4s and corrugated tin roofing. Would be my go to.
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:16 PM
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whatever gives you dead air space.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:11 PM
Philip Yamron Philip Yamron is offline
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Thanks everyone. I deeply appreciate the help this forum/community offers.

Philip
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