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#1
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Dying or coloring sandblasted glass
Hey All,
I'm new to this ( Thanks JB) I am hoping to color a large 3ft glass piece that I sandblasted ? I was hoping for a translucent coloration that was some how dipped in color or airbrushed ? I would love all and any suggestions on what paint to use , or techniques. Thanks for taking the time. |
#2
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You can use various painting mediums to color sandblasted glass. Oil, acrylic, or watercolor all work. It depends on what the piece's final function is. Watercolor is not permanent. Acrylic has a short working time. Oil based media yields the most subtle and desirable results. Apply and then wipe to remove excess.
My experience is not extensive, but coupled with what I have seen from other artists I would go with oils. I can't speak to airbrush or dyes.
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Temperature and time. |
#3
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Look to Joan Irving and the installation in the airport in San Diego.
Joan used enamel powders on her work to then be refired into the abraded areas. Really well done.
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Where are we going and why am I in this basket? |
#4
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I did two 5x8 panels heavily carved pierced with lamp worked branches and cherry blossoms. I tried oil paints and found them to dirty and fade over time. Ended up using pebeo paints. Airbrushed and fired to 325f. Looks as good today as when it was hung.
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#5
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I guess you can only load one attachment per post. That is just part of the design. Anyway you get the idea.
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#6
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<eben epoiese> |
#7
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I've had good luck with orasol dyes used in adhesives but I would think they could be put in a media and sprayed. The dyes were made by Ciba Geigy. They are fade resistant for 30-50 years depending upon color selection.
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#8
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That's a great close up of your piece Sky. Would love to see the whole image. Very cool!
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#9
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Rich or someone will probably remember who this was but someone in Seattle used to blow large transparent pieces and then paint them with One Shot sign paints.
The One Shot stuff is full of lead and I don't thing any are translucent.
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Art is not a thing...it's a way. |
#10
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Dave, the only person who comes to mind is Bob Carlson, but I don't know what paints he used after (early on) giving up Testor model paints.
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#11
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Alcohol inks would work.
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#12
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Quote:
Cappy Thompson?
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Where are we going and why am I in this basket? |
#13
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The drawback to using any type of oil-based media on sandblasted glass is its propensity to collect dust. Oil paint has a slow drying time, and accelerants can cause adhesion issues. Give 'em time to dry before setting it loose in the wild.
As to the issue of fading, lightfastness is always of concern with pigmentation whether we're talking about paints or dyes. It is of more concern if the object will be placed in direct sunlight. It has more to do with quality than application. You always get what you pay for. If you buy artist oils with, say, Rembrandt on the label the color is less likely to fade over time as opposed to ones with Bob Ross on them.
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Temperature and time. |
#14
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Danny Perkins, large blown and then painted. Don't recall what paint he uses.
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#15
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Thanks so much for all your suggestions
I would upload a picture of the piece if I knew how to do that.
It is a 26" Magnolia bud with about 100 bits for the seed head.Lots of spots for coloration not to look uniform. |
#16
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Thanks so much for all your suggestions
I would upload a picture of the piece if I knew how to do that.
It is a 26" Magnolia bud with about 100 bits for the seed head.Lots of spots for coloration not to look uniform. |
#17
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I think that the paebo paints would be best for that. Edit... Traditional glass stainers colors would work as well look up Peter mcgrain . https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_4ywjuc68f9_e
Last edited by Rosanna Gusler; 10-14-2018 at 08:16 AM. Reason: More thought |
#18
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This is not a piece that can be brought back up in an anneiler. It's a no heat painting option but thank you.
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#19
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Not exactly what you're looking for, but it popped up in my feed.
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#20
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Not a permanent exhibit, I suppose?
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