Red Peachblow?

[Josh Bernbaum]

I ran across a couple images recently of some old work made by the LE Smith factory. I'm not attaching them here because they seem to be super small files and I think it'll come across pretty pixelated, but the look of these vases reminded me of what I've seen of Peachblow but less 'peachy' and more of a bright red. Would this still be considered a type of Peachblow, I suppose with more cadmium to go with the selenium? They look to me like what I imagine the straw-to-bright red strike on a transparent cad/sel fade would look like but in opaque form. But I'm not used to seeing 'heat-history' striking with opaque reds as with the transparents.

[Pete VanderLaan]

I think you probably still have the formula we used for a fluorine opal peach back in the classes. It is a thermal glass if you want to strike it. By puntying the stuff and reheating it just at the lip, it strikes that way. Differing base glasses would yield differing results. Casing it changes things and not necessarily in a good way.

[Terry Crider]

Without a pic - I'm not sure what you are asking; but google "Plated Amberina"
Is it anything like this?

[Pete VanderLaan]

That's the stuff. You can see where it was put in a ribbing mold which chilled part of the piece and it darkened at those points. As you drop down the piece, the ribbing did not go with it. If the mix was kept cold, it never struck. If heated after that chilling, it strikes great.

Very popular in the great depression period since it was a lot of flash for not much cash. Basically a fluorine with cadmium sulfide and selenium in it. Probably harder to do then I make it sound. I used to do it on stemware when the cup was blown out and a stem attached, then a foot. The reheat involved just getting the lip pretty hot, trimming it and opening. These pictures look better than mine was although I never worked at perfecting it. I liked what I had.

[Terry Crider]

Pete,
I don't know anything the Lead/Arsenic White that you have talked about from time to time; but the interior White casing on any of this is very very thin and still very opaque.
Is that what the casing on this is?

[Pete VanderLaan]

I don't know. My fluorine white can be very thin and very opaque . My stuff was a fluorine that had selenium and cadmium in it but it's hard to get right. It was not brilliant in the red struck part The portion of the spectrum for red is incredibly small so slippage tends to make it either orangey or brown. Keeping white out of the mix makes for a better color in my opinion.

When Gaffer was first going, John made a gorgeous Ferrari red but the color slipped its moorings eventually. It worked as a lip wrap.

[Josh Bernbaum]

Originally Posted by Terry Crider

Without a pic - I'm not sure what you are asking; but google "Plated Amberina"
Is it anything like this?

Well most of that search showed more of what looked like a gold ruby fade over a fluorine white to me. But in another search I did see the word Amberina used to describe a similar LE Smith produced vase like I was talking about, which had a really nice opaque red as part of the strike and fading out to that opaque 'straw' color at the bottom. Pete, I remember that original Ferrari of John's, it was such a nice red.

[Eben Horton]

Gaffers Ferrari morphed into vermillion and then into carmine which them crescendo’d into “original carmine” which was double the price.


Josh, if you know david Mcdermitt, ask him for a peach blow recipe. He has all of sandwich glass and pierpoint’s color recipes

[Josh Bernbaum]

I don't know him, but I could look into contacting him. So is he a "sharing" kind of guy?

[Pete VanderLaan]

The mine runs coupled up with furnace and burner locations actually do make a huge difference not to mention altitude. Lino used to say "Melt glass where it wants to be melted" . The Germans said " A good recipe can't cross the street."

Croucher added, "Or the studio."

And they're all right. But I don't believe for a second that it has gold in it.

[Pete VanderLaan]

The real concern over lithium is whether it will raise the price of SP87 which is already ridiculously inexpensive compared to anything else out there.

You really don't need lithium in a batch glass. Substituting either calcium fluoride or potassium salts would suffice
making it melt colder. as long as you aren't running electric. If you use cullet, it does not matter at all.

In my black, I do bathe the potassium dichromate in a crushed compilation to get it to melt a bit easier. I could change that.